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If you cant get r17 to bring the voltage into rougly the middle of the sweep of the voltage rheostat/adjuster, then your VR is suspect. I have had them fail low on voltage, and have had voltage climb with load.

I am going to say for right now rotating diodes.... I would dig deeper into that, with the proper tests and if they look iffy replace them. Try again with the direct 12v battery test and see where your at before you yank it for a winding test.

I think its odd there is a problem with the flashing circuit AND that it is way under voltage with an excited field. Too much of a coincidence.....

Looks like a twin 6bt repower is in order :P

They are decent machines, I worked with a friend who is the used equipment manager at a very large cat dealer in houston on acquiring and selling some previously. I will see what TM's I have. Find a model number on the control box /voltage regulator and I can get stuff from cat

http://www.mcmaster.com/#flexible-duct-hose/=nkxu84 choose stainless on the left hand side

I think we are getting warmer... I wont have access to the TM pdf's till tonight but follow the circuit. I know the main start swtich is in there, and those take a dump sometimes. Actually I had one on this laptop. This section overall is for you 2-10 or in your pdf reader hit Ctrl+f and...

$$$$$$ Digital cat controls . I dont mean $$$ in a good way. Parts can get expensive. Cat engine for sure, might be a cat gen head, its been awhile, might have been marathon.

For a test, you could just apply voltage to the exciter. I dont think a 12v battery would be over doing it. If you see voltage there, then yes move on, and try the diodes next, they are not too bad to check or replace.

Jim corrected me, it is a large resistor on the board. Dont post in delirum...... They do sometimes burn up. I have a couple toasty ones here. Edit..I see you already moved past this.... Good, kind of a pain to take that out anyhow :) I would check at the exciter as jim says. It is the end...

Make sure the field flash circuit is in working order, and flash it good. Check the capacitor on the bridge rectifier in the back of the 'reconnection box' as well.

If there is pressure being applied to the throttle arm on the IP it should raise. Problem is corrosion and gummy crud sticks up the shaft and assembly that is on the other end of that throttle lever. With fresh diesel in it, if you gently coax it up and work it back and forth you can un stick...

The big one ​http://www.newark.com/amphenol-industrial/ms3106r32-7s/circular-connector-plug-size-32/dp/96J9488 I got a slightly different part number than Speddmon so you might want to double check. If I am right then the NSN was updated to 5935-01-070-3681 I found some in stock as surplus...

Best bet would be buy a used harness, and a used/junk control box with the connectors on it and cobble

There is nothing magic. Its all in the TM's and basic mechanical knowledge. I am skeptical that if you cant make your own checklist that you are going to be able to teach people who know even LESS than you know how to rebuild 30 year old outdated generators which are wildly available on 'large...

$140 plus a core fee unless your local and have one to give.

There is PLENTY of info in this forum. Any and all procedures are in the TM's.

Sounds good. If you need any misc stuff for the 004 post a wanted add , I know I have a few misc items.

Wow, lol. You would be a great friend if you got your buddy the operator manual for that. I have an 005 manual handy, and the control systems should be 99% identical.