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For the stock winch, there is no point. If you're putting on a non-stock winch, it's a great idea.

Planning on bringing the boy down on Sunday afternoon. Probably won't bring the M37, as it's a bit of a hassle, but I'm definitely interested to see what everyone else brings. I taught the boy, who is 1, to say "deuce" and he can distinguish between a regular truck and a deuce.

New pics, I'll get some more with the decals.

Updated the ad. I've got a lot of work done, rebuilt winch, painted, new canvas top and seat covers, new pintle hitch. 1951 M37 w/winch - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

Agreed, it is a great service, but the original point of it was to determine the year. As pointed out earlier in this thread, David Doyle wrote an article at some point explaining the VIN scheme and it was not as simple as looking at the s/n. I am certainly no expert, I just know I've seen...

So, why is there a whole thread where you can post VIN's to figure out the year of your truck? Not saying you're not right, but why wouldn't people just look at the registration number?

I thought the "71" in the serial number indicated the contract year, which may not necessarily be the same as the year of manufacture.

Would you even need the lower bracket? I don't have a truck to look at, but I was thinking you'd just loop the chain under the axle. Might save a little work and no modifications to the axle.

I think that was his anchor whilst yanking it off the truck.

Just read your page about your M109 RV conversion....all I can say is, wow.

Uh, isn't that exactly what I said? One spare and multiple extra tubes. First flat, put on the spare b/c it's quick and easy. Additional flats, break 'em down and repair/replace the tubes. I don't know a darn thing about chaining up axles, so I can't really speak to the original question...

Classified: 1951 M37 w/winch - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

M37 w/winch for sale in Kansas City, MO Anybody interested in a '51 M37 w/winch? New brakes, fluids, runs well, winch rebuilt. All rust on exterior was dealt with and the body primed by the PO, just needs final paint job. I'll get it posted in the classifieds, but I thought I'd throw out a...

I think you'd have to do some pretty serious damage to an NDCC to make it unusable off-road. Why not just carry one full spare (for the easy swap) and several tubes and proper tools if things get worse. As pointed out earlier, if you're ruining multiple tires, something else is probably wrong.

Why don't you go talk to one of your redneck brethren and have them set one of those trucks aside for me? I'll come pick it up next week :)

Just a heads up, it looks like they've added 3rd and 4th pictures to most of the lots in IA this week. However, it appears that most of these new pictures are of the exact same truck and reused for multiple other trucks. They are all under-hood photos and if you look at the rust spots, paint...

Do we need to do anything special to sign up, or can I just drive up in my M37 and hang out? What about bringing it on a trailer?

Here's the thing about the brakes. If you have no pedal due to low (or no) fluid, then that fluid went somewhere, i.e. a leak. Adding fluid and bleeding the system may help temporarily, but you've still got a leak and that's dangerous. At some point, you are going to end up with no brakes...

Think of it like this. The rear of the truck and that rear double-snatch block are getting closer together, right? So, where does all that slack go? Into the winch. The fact that the force is 3:1 in the back is the reason it moves backwards instead of forwards. It hurts my brain and I've...

Confused me at first, too. But I think the key is the double snatch block in the rear. That double loop is basically getting cinched up, with the winch taking up the slack. Kind of hard to envision unless you see it.