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I am sure you can find some but you will need a right arm, right leg, your best kidney and your first born child.
That’s and about $4,500 is the going rate.
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Well I made a little progress on the rear winch instal.
I got the new bolts in the upper A arm to hold the bracket. They are a little long but it’s what I could get. They will look better with a washer and the winch plate attached.
I had to drill out the holes in the inner brackets for the...
Download the digital version so you can use adobe word search. Makes troubleshooting much easier. Start with the -24 manual.
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Never ever trust a military gage. Ever.
Verify the temp with a laser or other method before you go to crazy. At 240 you should have had coolant boiling out so my suspicion is you have a bad reading on your gage.
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In my experience a clunk when going into gear is usually attributed to drive line slop.
Take it to a shop that specializes in drivelines and let them check your U-joints and yokes/driveshafts.
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A 12 volt micro-switch behind the brake pedal will do just fine to unlock the TC. You can just skip the 24 volt switch all together. I would just put a riv-nut in the floor and screw it in behind the pedal...
That is a real concern with thin walled headers but factory manifolds it would be years and years and years before you rusted through a factory manifold.
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In order to do this right you will need a good high quality exhaust wrap. Look to Summit for this. You will also have to pull the manifolds to get it wrapped tight enough. It will be much easier if you have two people or a large vice at a minimum.
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Make sure it’s not oil from a leaking valve cover running down to the bottom. Chances are it is the front seal though.
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Thank you for the intel. I didn’t know that.
I appreciate the help from both of you guys. I don’t know what the forum would be without y’all!
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