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:ditto: 35's will cause more wear and tear on the 10bolt axles although it can be done. Regearing the axles could cost around $350 per axle plus installation. Sometimes it cheaper to do a whole axle swap

I just did this with a trailer. I had the SF97 in the sellers name and a "Bill of Sale" notarized! Then I needed a copy of his drivers license because it was a out of state transfer. I had to pay double taxes because it was never registered. All and all not to bad. I like going to a title co...

Welcome to SS I would just change ALL fluids and filters and enjoy.

Looking good! And welcome. I would run 33" tires with the TH-400 it be alot cheaper and work well. 35s with the 700r4 would be nice but may need to change some gears 3.73? It's how much money you want to spend. You can to some more searching on here in that area. Good luck

Looking good! Sliding glass :jumpin: that looks like the next thing I need to do. I need to change those window seals anyway.

I think I got the same problem. When I first got my M1009 I brought it to a shop and had all fluids changed I think they put the opposite of what was in the there they were suppose to flush and refill. Looking at it a while back It looks mixed dark on the bottom and more clear fluid on the top...

:ditto: I just spent $300 there trying to re-do all my seals I also bought the tail gate window seals there more expensive. Classic-parts is a great place to get everything at the same time

I think your talking about the JERRY CAN holder platform. The jerry can mounting bracket mounts on top of that.

Im running 33-12.5-15 alterrains on 15x10 rims with a 2.5" superlift. No problems no rubbing when flexing. I bought the lift used and was running stock tires. Now wished I had a 4" ORD Shackle flip kit. But the 2.5" is plenty Pics in my sig thread.

I had a Mr-Gasket electric fuel pump on my M1008. I just used it as back-up and for changing fuel filters (bleeding). I plan on Changing all my rubber fuel line and adding and electric to my M1009 and use the same way. But looking for a better brand. Mine was install on frame rail pass...

Welcome!! Good looking chevys. The only thing 24V on the CUCV is the Nato Slave port on front bumper, starter, the feed going to the glowplug resistor. 1- outlet in the fuse box bottom left Everthing else is 12v. theres a 12 juntion block on the driver side fire wall and the rest of the fuse...

Good Info SHARECROPPER! Im 75% done with changing all my weather-stripping on my M1009 and was about to start looking into the vent windows. Glad I seen this before I started ripping the vent windows apart. Mine are not leaking yet but may go look in the salvage yard for a decent set.

Very Nice!! [thumbzup] Thats how I did my center console also.

Welcome! Nice looking Oh-9

Something like this maybe??:driver: No but really I just keep the top off in summer But plan on adding a 12 or 24v trucker fan

I was looking into the ORD body lifts also any good pics on how it looks. Im running a 2.5" lift with blocks in the back. Thinking about the 1" body lift and 1" zero rates I already have unistalled. Then removing the rear blocks for a 4" shackle flip. And add drop pitman arm for steering...

Ive done it once. I wraped the alternaters with plastic bags and sprayed degreaser all over let it sit for 15-20 min. Then lightly hit it with a weak electric pressure sprayer in certain area. Mostly the inner fender wells and crossmembers valve covers. Not the firewall or around the aircleaner...

Im sticking with 33"s with the setup of my Oh-9. Due to gearing, locker, and low power. I know lots of people with stock Half-ton chevys 10 bolts running 35s and bigger but they have better gearing overdrive and no locker and more power compared to the oh-9.