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A Flowmaster or something like that may help a little, but you don't want to restrict the exhaust of an air cooled unit too much.
An ASK is probably the best noise suppression alternative to start with. You can probably reline the ASK with more effective sound deadener.
A little enclosure...
I think you should have 1 fuel line feed the filters, 1 return line, and 1 aux line that takes fuel from an external tank and feeds it into the genset tank. There should be a float switch that allows the aux fuel pump to work, I think.
Different app probably meas no gen head.
The contact tachs are probably your best bet, depending on your app. If you need remote meter then they make some that strap to alternator that might be adapted.
It is good to start, immediately bring up to 1800 RPM., let it run for a few minutes, apply load.
When load is applied adjust speed to give as close to 60Hz as possible.
When powering down it is good to remove load, let run for a few minutes, and then shut down.
The voltage regulators like to break if you run them at low RPMs, that's all. If you have a few extra VRs or a few hundred extra bucks to burn then you can idle them all you want.
I'd bet the guy who last put it together forgot (or neglected) to torque the bolts. He probably just put them in finger tight. That might explain what you had.
Congrats.
I love it when I get a surplus gen going.
Yes, the plunger in the IP gets stuck when allowed to sit for a long time.
You may find the voltage regulator to be bad but they're not hard to find or fix.
Or, like me, you may find it works fine.
Don't let it idle. It should start, run up to 3600RPM and stay there. There is a low fuel...
Is it possible the bolts were hand tightened and then the assembler forgot to torque them?
Add that to a sudden loading and/or unloading and you might get enough force to shear them.
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