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There should be 12 stator wires and 2 field wires, I think.
T1 thru T12 for the stator and F1, F2 for the field.
However, that was probably cut because something in the head is bad.
Before you get too far test windings. You'll probably find at least one shorted. See pic, taken from TM.
I think it is for radio suppression. I'd keep the one at the top of the reg in the pic (with the two red wires) and maybe lose the one under the reg in the pic that ties in with the reg output.
Advice on bidding would be don't bid unless you are ready for a possible project. The DRMO gensets are let go for a reason. It might be as simple as they were replaced with newer units or as complicated as it locked up and has sand in the oil pan. 90% of them (from my experience) have minor...
Here's a pic from an 003A.
I'm pretty sure this is how it goes, from memory:
The two black wires from the coil are AC and can go with either white wire into the reg. The wire with the red marking on it in the pic is the 24V DC output. The wires from the top go to a fuse. The case of the reg...
My buddy got some ammo cans once. When we went to pick them up several were missing lids. The auction was for cans with lids. We pointed out the missing lids and the GL person retrieved some lids for us. I'm pretty sure they came from another lot, probably someone else's nearby auction lot...
Thanks, Jim. That is what I was looking for. I don't think the ones in this head are legible. I know there must be easy to find equivalents. I just didn't know if they were forward or reverse biased. I want to go ahead and replace all three while I have it apart.
I got 5 new surplus...
Yeah, I tried all those part numbers and they just seem to lead back to themselves. I was hoping to find a more readily available standard part. Looks like a regular diode.
Capacitors are the components that usually go out on electronic stuff. Resistors seem to last forever unless overheated. Transistors seem to last, too, unless overdriven or overheated. Capacitors, on the other hand, seem to fail the most, especially when they get some age on them.
Additional stuff in fuel pump wiring should be RF filters which are not necessary.
You should be able to fine tune the RPM and Hz with the throttle control. Either the knob below the control box or some kind of adjustment on the governor should facilitate RPM adjustment. I'll have to look...
Injector pump and fuel pump are plunger driven and would both squirt if engine was rotated backward, I think.
They might spin faster with the injector removed but with just the line cracked you shouldn't get enough bleed off to make much of a difference in compression and rotation.
Wish you...
Fuel and spark. Make sure you have spark before you waste your time with carb and/or pulling the rope.
The carbs on those gassers seem to be allergic to Ethanol (most pump gas). It ruins the floats and makes them flood.
Pull a plug or all the plugs and make sure you have spark.
Usually...
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