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RE: rear battery
That just means you need to go to the next higher level of manual. You can't just start with the highest level manual because it will usually assume that all of the lower level stuff has already been done.
The first thing I would do is measure the voltage across each battery. If it is less than 12.6, I would slow charge it. Once they read 12.8, I would start the vehicle and measure it again. You should see less than 15 volts across each and they should be about the same. A sudden high...
I was wondering what other regular buyers were seeing on their EUC time. I bought my 4th truck this year. I sent the paper work in 4 weeks ago. It went to battle creek 3 weeks ago. That is 15 business days. My first three took about 10 business days. I noticed someone got theirs in 7 in April.
This thread seems to be treating all CUCVs as having the same value. It has been my experience that trucks bring about twice as much as M1009s of comparable condition on GL at least until you get up to the extra nice ones were the trucks seem to be worth at least a 1000 more than the1009s...
I question that I have been thinking about that I don't know the answer to is: Is there any advantage to owning a 1967 vs 1983 from a legal standpoint. i.e. were the later model truck exempted from any EPA, clean air act or safety laws that civilian trucks of the same weight class had to meet?
I was told at a convention that 47 and 53 are the inside and outside mount for a deuce. It would make since that it would fit any of that family of cabs.
Looks like full retail to me. I would expect it to be offered by a dealer with a good reputation before I paid that much. Should include fresh fluids and a going over by someone who knows about this type of truck. 2cents
Actually, the starter button shouldn't have worked if the accessory switch isn't working. You are going to have to do some more trouble shooting before you start replacing parts. Do you have 12.5 volts across each battery with the motor off? If not, you will need to recharge them before you...
RE: scrap
I don't think you have to have your buyers actually fill out an EUC, you just have to tell them they can't export the item and you have to record the name and address of the buyer. Of course, having them fill one out would accomplish both.
RE: FAQ Thread for CUCV
How to decode your vin number:
1st digit = Nation of Origin
-- 1 = USA
2nd digit = company
-- G = General Motors
3rd digit = division
-- B = Chevrolet, incomplete example contract maintenance trucks
-- C = Chevy Truck
-- 8 = Multipurpose Vehicle All M1009's (blazers)...
Most of the parts are the same demil code as the truck and cannot be exported. The only way to buy the truck without an EUC is to buy it as scrap and have it mutilated on site where no parts are usable.
The lesson here is to pay and get a bill of sale signed before you move a truck. You may think you know someone well enough to take "a man's word", but in this day and age it doesn't mean what it used to.