Search results

My alternator bracket bolts broke because it was the pre 196900 style rear support that went to an exhaust stud, and the flange it also held down wasn't flat, so it pulled the stud sideways and caused it to break. Without that rear support there is a lot more stress on the bracket bolts. The...

50 amps max. The TCM is going to use some of that 12V feed. The reason I say 30 max is because you really don't want to max out the amount of power draw on the circuit if you can avoid it, so 30 amps plus whatever the TCM is drawing keeps you below 40 amps.

You would need to run it through a constant duty solenoid/relay rated for the load, that is connected to a switched power source. The Orion 70 amp 24-12 converter has a built in relay to do exactly this (and if you're pulling more than about 30 amps of 12V you should really use a converter anyway)

also make sure your throttle linkage is properly routed and seated, as you may have inadvertently leaned on something during all the work and pulled a cable out of position or jammed the throttle open or something.

I could be nice and just give you the belt part numbers for in a store, but I don't actually know which store you want to use, and different numbers cross to different things in different websites, so I'm going to go through the process of how to find the part number you need yourself. As for...

They are often referred to as "A0" because too many people like to say "M998" whether it's an M998, M998A1 or M998A2. Calling it an A0 makes it clear that it is NOT an A1 or A2 model. If you look at AM General's parts website they refer to the basic models as A0. They also refer to the M1123...

That serial number would put it as a manufacture date of around 1988, so it would be an A0 truck, not an A1. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hmmwv-serial-year-of-manufacture-list.165800/ unless they did some type of retrofit, it's extremely unlikely to be anything other than the 218

H13 would be an M998A0 truck, which I believe are from before 92. If yours is a 94 then at minimum it should be an A1 or possibly an A2 variant. If you have a 3 speed M998 then it's probably the NP218 If it's a 4 speed then it's the 242 If your truck really is an M998 not an A1 then likely 94...

For those saying military only uses DOT 5, here is the PSMagazine article giving an NSN for a 1 quart bottle of DOT 5.1 as well as the NSN for the 55 gallon drum, and stating it's for the ABS equipped HMMWVs. https://www.psmagazine.army.mil/News/Article/2889577/hmmwv-nsn-for-abs-brake-fluid/

If it were me I might buy that, but only if a starter rebuild shop told me that repairing mine would be more. If you really don't want to take it to a repair shop, then that's definitely a decent option. 1 year limited warranty is a little piece of mind; definitely better than a cheap chinesium...

I'm pretty sure the trucks with ABS use 5.1, but unaware of the other trucks using it. I recently did brake fluid on my 2010 Barstow rebuild, and it definitely had silicone fluid in it as there was a little water sitting in the bottom of the reservoir. Only article I found about brake fluid is...

Cheap chinese made junk. As far as I know there are no U.S. made gear reduction starters in 24V for the 6.2/6.5.

There are automatic oilers for air systems, as well as filter separators for after the pump to clean up the air (downsides is the ones that will get all the oil mist are expensive, but a cheapert one that gets the majority should be good enough for filling tires) One system example and more...

At minimum I believe you have to mount the winch to the A2 style front bumper. That kit has the A0/A1 mounting plate that replaces the front bumper, and I don't believe it will work with the Ibis bumper. I could be wrong though, so hopefully someone that knows for sure will come along and...

As long as it didn't damage the windings inside the starter motor, you'll probably be okay with a new solenoid rather than complete starter, but that's what a starter rebuild shop will determine. It's almost always worth the money spent getting it fixed right and not having to remove the...

In most cases a winch in the rear to pull yourself back out of what you got into can be more useful than a winch in the front that's just pulling you further into the mess.

Best way to minimize movement is tie it at the length you want from the side you want it on, then tie another cord to the opposite side, with just enough tension to pull it in about 6" from where it sits when just tied to the first one

At minimum you'd need to take your existing starter in to a competent starter repair shop and get it checked out. At worst you need a new starter.

as long as there is no air in the system, the injection pump usually has enough suction to still run. It isn't until you try to put it under a load that the lift pump is an issue. Usually also if it dies because of the lift pump, it will NOT restart until the lift pump is replaced. Open the...

Nah, that's what Chinooks are for. They make great tow trucks.