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Looking underneath my truck, there was a wet spot forming on the passenger side frame rail up near the front. Some type of oil, but while it was starting to cover the frame rail, none of it looked to be dripping on the ground. Finally figured out that one of the transmission oil cooling lines...

if it is a bad idler, the bearings should be replaceable and easily found at just about any auto parts store.

no way to tell actual original build date, but if it's a 3 speed it's 1993 or before, as they started the A2 4 speeds in 1994 I believe

it has a small stud that lines up with a hole in the plate it's bolted to, so in theory you could just drill a new hole in the orientation you want of course not knowing what switch it actually is, it might have different functions, or might not be rated to handle the load the HMMWV puts...

You have the old style serpentine belt, which means you probably have the old style generator bracket on the rear of it, that goes from the gen to an exhaust stud. On my truck that exhaust stud broke, so nothing supporting the rear of the generator to the block. This puts a lot of stress on...

I think those are the strikers for the rear doors, not the front? The post should be off to the side of the bolts, not in the middle for the front doors I believe. https://blackdogcustoms.com/product/x-door-striker-complete-set/ EDIT: the cap on the post doesn't make any difference or so...

watching the second video, you can see movement down low on the harmonic balancer and maybe belt movement on the fan pulley. Extra load from the glow plugs pulsing for the afterglow is putting short extra stress on the belt system, and if everything isn't perfectly straight it ends up trying to...

"supposedly an OEM one..." Where did you buy it from? either the switch is wrong, or the paddle is, but I'm guessing the switch.

When mine was failing, it would work for a while, then not work. I managed to limp it along by turning off the truck, tapping on the regulator with my closed pocket knife a few times, then starting up again and it might or might not work. Just keep an eye on the voltage gauge. If it starts...

When I had to replace my regulator a few years ago, the general thoughts about it are that the alternator itself is pretty bulletproof; it's almost always the regulator that fails. Since it's putting out power at high levels, it's extremely unlikely that the alternator failed because a failed...

Did you check to see what the resistance of your leads and wires are before touching them to the alternator? It's not uncommon to have up to an ohm of resistance just in the leads and connections. I'd say it's most likely a failed regulator.

So I went back and corrected myself, as it appears they went to higher speed gears rather than higher torque in later years. Here's a sales ad from 1993 stating 2.73 gearing

Random answer, usually 2.73 or 2.56, or whatever the owner decided to put in there. EDIT: Changed 3.08 to2.56 because unlike military HMMWVs, they went to a taller gear in later years for lower cruising RPMs as opposed to lower gearing for higher torque in the military ECV/REV trucks. 92-97...

No problem. Lots of confusing terms/nomenclature for parts, and some of them just weird. And just for reference, the word "bracket" shows up in the ECV/REV parts manual 1241 times, so being able to describe the part and what it goes to when searching goes a long way to narrowing it down...

I did a google search for "hmmwv 12k halfshaft insert" This shows up on the AM General website for ECV/REV trucks. https://genuinehumveeparts.com/product/5715542spacer-halfshaft-boot-tulip-12k The part number there, 5715542 shows up on a lot of parts sites...

biggest downside I see is if one fails, you're waiting for your supplier to get a new one shipped to you. I suppose that's the same with most 6T series batteries, especially the AGM ones.

My personal opinion is it's better to have the bead lock run flat installed. It's a bit of extra work, but adds a lot of safety in case of tire issue while driving. Especially because you're talking about installing tires that the military stopped using 3 decades ago, so even if they are "new"...

no worries; we try to have as few threads started as possible; especially when it's the same basic issue/discussion. I did reply on your new one, but don't be surprised if a moderator moves it over into this one.

First thought was the same thing Mogman said; check the throttle lock under the dash. second thought is how do you know it's idling too fast? If you're just comparing it by ear/feel from one truck to the next; they don't always sound the exact same. If you don't have a tach installed, buying...