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For the DRASH/HDT gen/ecu trailers, it's the cost of the entire kit, including repair parts, tent, auxiliary heaters, etc. Everything together is why it's a $100k+ cost for that type of unit.

There is nothing in that picture that even remotely reminds me of anything HMMWV. The wheels/tires are just because that's what the Army has lots of, so using that in a prototype would simplify supply chain if ever adopted. What does the equipment look like overall? It's usually pretty cool...

Might be some extra early HMMWVs out there with 4 digit serial numbers or less, a bunch of 5 digit, but the majority are all 6 digit.

There is some debate about the necessity of the bead lock. There is nothing inherently different about the military 16.5" HMMWV rim bead seating area compared to any other 16.5" rim. As long as you keep the tires inflated properly, the tire will stay on the rim. The issues mostly come in when...

That I have no idea. The main concern I'd have is the inner tube valve stem lining up properly in the same location as the inflation valve location on the rim. I find it unlikely that you'll get a perfect match, which would cause strain on the inner tube, leading to premature failure. You will...

The 36" bias ply are lumpy until they warm up, so the first few miles of driving isn't exactly what you would call "smooth". After that through they are fine. The 8 bolt rim is only rated for 25psi. I suppose if you were running your tires below that you would be okay, but I don't know of...

The simplest way to check is get a cheap optical/photo tachometer. All you need to do it point it at a spinning object that has one reflective or bright marking on one spot , and read the numbers. If the numbers don't match, then it's the tach that's off. I've done this math in other threads...

This has come up several times in the past, and the usual culprit was a tachometer that was reading incorrectly.

I don't know if they have the same bolt pattern, but if you changed out the box you'd also have to change out all of the steering linkage, as the two are different (so drag link, idler arm, pitman arm; possibly other parts) The pictures of the two in the manual also appear to have different...

EDIT: not trying to be rude, but any time you want to make sure you have the correct part for your version of the truck, the parts manual will be the easiest and most accurate place to look.

will bolt right on. I don't think you have to remove the channel for the soft top at the front of the frame, but it's been a few years so don't remember exactly.

I had a coworker a decade ago that was really into older radios. He sold a few on ebay from time to time, but as the seller he got ripped off a few times because of how much ebay favors the buyers over sellers. He'd sell radios as "non working/parts only" and have them returned for full refund...

other options are bicycle inner tube or other soft rubber or plastic. Mine is wrapped in PVC tape.

When asking for assistance like this starting off with the model of truck and what alternator is in it is extremely helpful for those who want to help. As the saying goes "garbage in, garbage out" meaning if you don't give us good information we can't give you good advice. "bolt under the...

if you're reading 12.5 across both batteries, either they are hooked up incorrectly or you have failed batteries. Did you check voltage on each battery individually?

I have heard of a shorter version of the fording exhaust to work with a certain vehicle configuration, but not sure of the details. I don't believe it was quite that short though

On at least one version of the halfshaft someone in a thread a few years back took it into their local auto parts store and was able to get one that matched up well enough to use. I don't recall any information afterwards about if it had any issues though.

The lift pump moves a lot of fuel, so as long as the fuel line going to the injection pump is cracked a little it should self bleed provided there are no other issues. Something to test. There is a drain valve for the fuel filter up in the front wheel well. When you are cranking over the engine...

The typical advice for lifts is to lift the body, not the suspension. Lifting the suspension puts halfshafts/CV joints at extreme angles and wears them out much faster. As far as I know if all the shims are removed and it still needs more, there isn't a whole lot you can do. Doing a...

pretty much any truck that was in service for more than 10 years has a replacement engine in it. Basically, at around 10 years, they get sent out for reset/rebuild. The company with the contract gets a set amount of money for every truck to put into it, and as most trucks don't really have much...