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I agree, the inertia of the cab moving an inch is not going to make the difference. If you flop, that was going to happen anyway. I would think having the compliance and shock absorption would be better for your truck when off-road compared to a pin in a “thin” piece of metal. Your best scenario...
thanks…… maybe you can shed some light on the following.
since I have the A0 accessory harness, and my new dash has 13 additional switches, I am thinking of using the accessory harness for 10 of the switches.
3 will be the default winch/PTO switches.
Blue is the accessory harness wires...
Ok, been sick, now back at it.
I repaired the pin. Just extracted it, then recrimped. It looked like they did not fully crush it so I just reinserted and crimped it again.
After a bunch of reading, it looks like the A0 harness is just like the A1 harness. So, I think if I just plug it in...
Found these accessory connectors under my new dash:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/new-dash-layout-in-the-works%E2%80%A6%E2%80%A6.210895/
I am contemplating how much I want to tie my old harness to my new wiring.
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Well, looks like I am skipping the guards. If my truck were green, I might risk it with FMV plates, but not otherwise.
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All,
Does anyone have any experience with light guards? I just got some new heated LED headlights and wanted to protect them. I saw this YouTube video of a German owned truck where he had a polycarbonate lens protector save his headlight. Next post will show some pictures and ideas. I do like...
Maybe wire in a lock up switch? Not sure what that would entail.
I think I will still just wire as I describe above. I would like to use drive tires when winching.
I forgot the discussion, but I am assuming Mode in manual 1st or second would be the proper option. Thoughts?
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The routing does matter. The path through the condenser matters too. The condenser is after the compressor (in the top and out the bottom), then the dryer, then the evaporator, then compressor again.
Broke Overland has a good video.
I am a little unsure about where the trinary switch goes...
I burried my PTO switch so I should not inadvertently hit it. It is between the “handles” and 3 lever light switch. But I really want the light for safety!
I might have screwed up….. I got 3/4” long studs, but I think shorter is required. Might have to trim them. Will let everyone know.
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