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All, I am temporarily stalled. After I drilled out the hump cover, the sewing split open (unrelated). I sent it to a repair shop today and should get it back next week. After that is done, I should be ready for the evaporator install. Real quick question…… I put a zip tie on one of my heater...

Dumb question….. Are you planning on remit controlling your winch over cellular? That sounds very dangerous to me. I can only think of a couple things I would want to control remotely on the dash of my truck. On/off, start, and a diesel heater. Maybe power locks and light bar…. That it for...

Those are linx distributors. Or something like that. They are on the victron site. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The arduino controller does not use the original transducer…. I think it uses the 150psi one. At least that is what I remember. Reach out to @Plasa Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you look for them like I posted above? I thought mine were missing too at first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new two pin (orange and black) is additional power to your evaporator. The ends go to your power panel. The harness has a 4 pin connector for your trinary pressure switch. The evaporator 4 pin goes ti your truck harness your heater used. Does that help? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What all was in the kit? Thanks for sharing! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There were also the duct adapter rings that you clamp the foot ducts to in the same bag. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine were in a bag taped to the inside of the side area (under park brake buttons). Maybe check there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you notice in one of the drill pictures, I ran a blue Smurf tube behind where the evaporator goes. This will let me fish wires to my switch panel as needed later.

Painted the evaporator unit. I had to barricade the unit while the paint dried from the shop cats.

My evaporator came with 4 duck bill drains so I installed them. anyone else use 4? YouTube videos I saw only installed 2.

All, Starting a thread on my install using Waterloo parts. So far I am impressed. Pictures are coming. made a template for the new holes out of flashing tin with paper printouts taped on. drilled holes I k stalled the wire harness into the back of the fording switch. more pictures...

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice!

Trimmed this lip back….. them mounted the dash. Looks like it will get tight when ai wire in all of the new stuff, but I think I will have enough room. I will probably chain them together and have them all on a common ground to switch relays elsewhere.

That is the one I have. How do you like it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, tried something else and failed. I was able to clamp on the rubber around the turn signal cancel piece. I bent the bearing splitter. I lost my nerve after a bit. I did some love taps with a smallish hammer. I may use the grinder. This was an HI truck, so it had a few rust spots...

I bought some 3m thinsulate 1.75” thick. Plan to spray adhesive precut pieces into the cavities. No itch for me. Was about $100 for the piece I need off of an auction site. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need to trim the gray lip on the right side about 1/8” to clear my new switches. also, anyone know what this stud is for? below is where the potentiometer is mounted.