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Looks like 1 ohm, try changing the scale to 200 or 20K and see what it reads. Are you sure you do not have the leads touching each other at the pins? What is the P/N of that sensor? It should be one of these: GM part# 10045847 Old style Napa - TS4032 Orielly - WT5133 New style Napa - TS4015...

It would be best to do it without the engine running.

It looks like the wait light came on at 0:16 and off at 0:19, the card kept the GP's on until 0:40. This is normal operation for a GP card depending on the temperature of the engine. This is the after glow period. To check the temp sensor, Unplug it. Set your meter scale to resistance x 1...

I'm not sure why the water/fuel light is flashing. I think you may have a ground connection that needs some attention. The CUCV is well know for poor grounds and poor electrical connections over time. But the low voltage and dim lights until the GP relays opens is normal. They are drawing...

The temp sensor for the glow plug card is a thermistor. It changes resistance with temperature change. This resistance value is used to calculate the time that the glow plug relay is closed. The high idle sensor is a switch. It is either open or closed.

Your second video shows normal GP operation. What you discovered is more commonly known as after glow. The GP's stay on after starting the engine for a little while until the GP card turns them off.

That is one way to test it, but I read on a few other vehicle forums, that the NAPA ST81 relays have been known to fail in the closed position. So removing the control wires will not disengage the relay contacts. It would be best to confirm that the wires going to the glow plugs do not have...

Start the truck and verify that the GP relay is not applying voltage to the glow plugs after the proper time. It sounds like the GP's are still on. The squealing and getting hot are both indicators that it is putting out all it can current wise. The GP system can draw 100 amps when all the GP's...

"If anyone knows a step by step engine pull thread to reference that would be super cool. Any hints and tips are appreciated of course!" Try this thread. 6.2 Removal Guide

Check the fusible link wire at the 12v connection on the fire wall labeled ENG WRG HARNESS BLOCK It should be the Orange to smaller Red wire connection. They can look good, so remove it and twist tug and pull on it some to ensure it is good. Then test it with an ohm meter for continuity. It may...

Yes that is correct. The relay is merely a remote controlled switch. Open means the GP's are not getting power applied to them, Closed means the GP's should be getting voltage from the vehicle power system. In your case, that is from the resistor.

Check the voltage on the orange wires at the GP relay with it closed. It should be around 12 volts. Open should be 0. The wire from the resistors should be around 24 volts open relay, and 12 volts closed relay. The green wires will not have any voltage on them when the GP relay is open. When its...

CUCV Parts TM Section II, Figure 131 Page 289 and 290 CUCV TM's can be found here: CUCV TM's

It's an obsession... Schematic for your enjoyment. Of course, add fuses at the correct locations for your protection...

I added an extra voltmeter in so it monitors the GP voltage then auto switches to the 12 volt side of the electrical system when the card opens the GP relay. Much more accurate than a LED.

I have soaked a couple of sets in paint stripper using a disposable aluminum pan. It takes a couple of days to get it to soak in. After the majority of it was removed, I used a dental tool to pick the coating out of the interior corners prior to sandblasting and powder coating.

Added a breaker box and connectors so I can power things a little easier from the gen set. Now to get the tail lights working.

I have 2 M1008 trucks. The first one was named Leonard. By the previous owner. This one might be called Nimoy. Live Long and Prosper....

Thanks for the update.

It came on in Low, Med and High.