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Funny, I used my 1961 4000 to move my MEP-003A when it got here. I put the horizontal steel angles of a generic 3-point frame through the fork pockets on the 003 and chained the lifting eye on top of the engine back to top of the the 3-point frame. The hitch lifted the 003 fine, and I just...
Your test is valid, but it might not find problems that show up at high temperature or higher voltages like it sees in use. You could say that your test showed that the transistor is probably good.
The schematic does show a resistor, R2, connected to the regulator. I assume since this is a shunt regulator, current not needed for battery charging is sent to this resistor. I'll be interested in hearing what AC volt reading you get once the regulator is back to the way it was.
Edit: I...
It's not likely that gunk and rust account for the low output. Look for something else wrong before you put it back together. Could the stator have been rewound and some coils are connected backwards? Are the magnets still strong? Was your AC measurement made with the stator open-circuited...
It's my opinion that special conformal coatings for protecting circuit boards are often not very different from common clear spray enamel coatings like Krylon. On another forum, I read that an engineer at Krylon said their conformal coating and their clear enamel appeared to be the same, but...
I've done this to clean really gummy tanks, but I use lacquer thinner because it dissolves the varnish. I shake the gravel around for a while, and then let the tank sit for a couple hours with the lacquer thinner doing its job, and repeat until it's clean. One tank took a week or so to get...
Understood, but why not mount the charger in the control box instead of building a charger and mounting it in the control box?
You can build a series (pass) regulator easily enough, either a linear one or a switching type, but you're effectively building a primitive battery charger, and I'd...
The charging alternator is a permanent magnet unit, and the regulator is a shunt type that wastes unwanted current. A standard transformer would not like this, since shunting extra current becomes a partial or full short circuit to the transformer. You could use a transformer with a series...
If you have 24v at the pump and it's not running, it would seem that the pump's ground must be floating. When you have 24v at the pump, what's the ground terminal/wire measure on the meter, compared to battery negative?
Are you saying you tried to power the pump through the float switch without a relay? As originally wired, the PRIME-RUN-AUXILIARY position has the aux fuel pump run full time, and the float switch powers a relay which opens a solenoid valve as fuel is needed.
I imagine the Emergency Run position bypasses all the safety shutoffs like low oil pressure, over temperature, etc.. You should probably start by checking those sensors and see if you find one of them or its wiring in the shutoff mode.
I wouldn't be worried about the resistors, just choose them properly so they don't get overly warm and maybe put a Zener at the input pin to get rid of any spikes that might sneak in. I'm most familiar with the Intel 8051 family and all the others that followed like the Signetics 87C552, etc...
Man, I'm glad I moved out of the DC area! Here in rural NC I could have 55 gallon barrels of fuel side by side on my property line instead of a privacy fence, and no one would care.
Maybe just use a couple resistors as a voltage divider and eliminate the transformer. Have the microcontroller sense the top of each cycle with something like a comparator IC against a Zener or whatever, and measure the time between each cycle.
Of course if your microcontroller has an A-D...