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On the M939 series trucks it is. I'm not sure if that's true on the M809 series or older ones. Just trying to clarify. :)

60mph should be doable in one, as long as it's not 3.08 geared and on 36's with no OD. (But that combo probably would never happen since it's so many eras of the platform) I cruise at 60-65 in mine all the time.

Post count no longer is a factor in classifieds. The previous posts above yours outlines that. Just have to upgrade membership to list items for sale. (Wanted ads are free)

Just for clarification, the 1028 front is a limited slip (clutch) style differential.

I've searched based on measurements for a civilian filter. Wasn't able to find one either.

Kinda some useful info in that link he sent? (Actual bolt pattern measurement)

I think you said you had 33" tires. Are you still stock with a TH400 transmission and 4.56 gears in the 1008? Because that should work out to 3900rpm. Either the speedo is fast or the tach is slow if everything else is stock.

Could I interest you in a bridge I have for sale as well? Sorry, but I had to. While water/meth WILL increase power, there's no way you'll net 60hp from it. You can increase fueling and get to the 60hp that way. But in all honesty with how detuned MV engines are, I'd suspect you could...

I never got around to running water/meth on the 5.9's I had over the years. But it's proven to work in some capacity. That said, in a "stock" setup, you'll not see enough of a gain to justify the cost/expenses of installing/running it. It's really more of a stop gap used in performance...

It'd perform poorly given the sizing of the turbo. Plus the passenger bank would have increased backpressure to it. Although, one could use two smaller turbos and feed each bank to their own turbos if they wanted to forgo the crossover.

What price did they work out to be? $1500?

Did the 5 ton hubs ever get produced?

Nothing wrong with upgrading drivetrain. If I ever own another 1009, it won't be rolling on a set of 10 bolts with a gov-bomb....

Worse comes to worse, you could install a zero rate in the rear. Course the rear will sit 1" taller then, but it'd give you a little play room if the driveshaft is too long. You could also install a zero rate up front as well.

Your only option to upload from a phone here is tapatalk. Remotely hosted images will either show up as a link or if it's too large, the message you've seen. You'll also need to set tapatalk to upload to the forum as an attachment, not use their remote hosting.

I keep things at 28V on the dot. I had set mine to 29v at one time. Ended up flubbing it a hair putting it back together and actually went to 30v. Boiled out a set of batteries....

I would be using a tuner inline most likely. Not sure how you'd cut down the fiberglass antenna, nor would I want to....

Good bit of difference between the 14SF and FF rears. Especially the housing center and how the pinion installs. No worries. GM made it difficult when they're both "14 bolts".

He's going to run the 9.5" semi floater rear end. (At least that's what I assume by the 14SF he mentioned)

You don't, you buy the "bastard joint" as an assembly. It's been decades since I used one, I've long since forgotten the number. You're going to need to go to a NAPA or somewhere that will look up the u-joint specs, then find the adapter joint you need.