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Ok, next I would troubleshoot the exciter board, very easy to do. It is located on the back wall of the distribution box, behind CT1 and CVT1. When CVT1 sends the signal to the generator head, it actually sends it to the exciter board and the board is what sends the actual signal. You'll see a...
Your problem is more than likely the CVT and CVT1 Transformers in the distribution box. The CVT transformer sends the signal to the percentage output gauge and the CVT1 takes readings and sends signals to the generator head to send out power (in simple terms). If you look in the TM, you can...
The ground strap is on the bottom of the (cabinet). Also, YES it matters how the batteries are hooked up. The positive comes off the starter solenoid and the negative goes to the stud on the side of the starter. Batteries need to go Positive+ (from starter solenoid), negative- (post), positive+...
If he doesn't have anything registering on the meters, then it's more than likely in the distribution box. It's either the exciter, linear reactor, or CVT1. If you have an extra distribution box, just take it with you because it may take to long to test all the items I listed in a short amount...
I bet that motor was screaming at 75 hertz.
Be careful with setting your hertz so high and I consider 63 high. Electronics can't take a huge swing in hertz and they do not do well with high or low hertz input. I usually set all my sets to 61.5 hertz and when fully loaded, a good unit will...
Got a question, with your auto start system. How are you activating the ac interrupter to send current to the lugs? Does the Inova board do this or do you have to do a modification to send current to the lugs?
Negative back on the post. Your problem is going to be with the pump that was still connected. Luckily it looks like its the aux pump so we can work around it for now, leave that one pump disconnected. Turn the switch to prime/run and you will have 2 wires that have 24 volts and those 2 hot line...
With the switch in the prime and run position, you will have 2 of the 3 wires with 24 volts. Then when you turn the switch to aux/run, all 3 will have 24 volts. When I'm referring to the wires, I'm talking about the connectors you have pictured, you have one connected and 2 disconnected.
1st...
Also with replacing the reconnection switch, apparently the military used 2 different ones. Some of the older units have several more terminals on the switch and on the units that have less terminals, they piggybacked several wires together. So it could be a little difficult if you have two...
This is a tip for anyone who has had a stuck reconnection switch. If you take the side cover off the distribution box, where you can see all the wire. Spray the reconnection switch, all over with WD-40 and gentle tap the front and back of the reconnection switch with a hammer, while trying to...
If you can get some vice grips on the reconnection shaft, try to turn it clockwise as far as it will go. It has 3 positions 9, 12 and 3, 3 is single phase 240 and you will read voltage at L1 and L3 with L0 being neutral.
The transformers your referring to, are almost always cracked. Behind the...
In response to your comment about the fuel solenoid shutting off when you let go of the start switch. When starting the unit, it bypasses the 2 safety switches (oil pressure and temperature). When you let off the start switch, if these two are not reading, the unit shuts down because it thinks...
Very common problem, that's just a plastic cap you can find at any auto parts store. They don't last long and just use a hose clamp to hold it on. About $1.5 worth of supplies.
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