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The strainer should go in with the larger opening facing down, so the smaller opening goes in first (According to the TM). Although, like you have mention I've seen them installed either way and doesn't seem to cause problems.

Like everyone said don't go below 58hertz or above 62, your home electronics will not like it. Voltage can range from 108-122, I have a kill a watt meter on my house and the utility company lets it swing between 108-123.

Yes, they are both the same. I've swapped around 002a to 003a VR boards and vis versa several times. They have nothing to do with the KW rating, they only control voltage via hertz.

More than likely the oil pressure switch is bad on the motor, that is the reason why it won't keep running after you let go of the start switch. You can jump the oil switch with a wire and it should stay running. Then, if the gauges are not reading, more than likely its the ground on the...

Sounds like it's coming together nicely. The oil pressure gauge maxing out on start up is normal, after a few minutes it will lower to 30-40lbs. But you need to check the oil level and make sure it's not overfilled. Since it will not stay running, it sounds like the oil pressure switch is...

Yeah, Ambac is the only place I have found. The last time I ordered one, it was $30. It's worth the money because it won't run exactly perfect without it.

In the second picture, that is the top of the plunger (it has the small hole in the center). Use your punch and lightly tap it with a hammer, then rotate the motor a little and tap it again. Keep doing this for a while, until it moves freely. The plunger has very close tolerances in the head and...

I had one that did the same thing, it turned out to be the ground on the control box. The ground is on the bottom of the box and attaches to the frame.

Take some needle nose and take the assembly out. Its the thing with the hole in it. After you remove that, the head of the plunger is there. That is what you hit with the dowel.

The plunger inside the pump is stuck. If you take the delivery valve holder off and remove the spring, with the assembly. You will see the plunger, rotate the motor over by hand and you should see the plunger moving in and out. If not, the plunger is stuck. Take a wood or brass dowel, put it in...

I really doubt the cam is bad but you might want to look at the teeth and cam lobe on the cam shaft to make sure everything looks ok. I have a feeling it's going to be the button in the injector pump. If the button is way off, it could cause the pump not to function properly. I would try the...

I was thinking the same thing at first but he should still get some fuel out of #2 port when cranking or after it is started.

That's weird. I would take the delivery valve spring out of the pump, then turn the fuel pumps on and turn the motor over with a socket. As you turn the motor over you should have fuel shoot out of the #1 and #2 port as you rotate it. Be careful because fuel will shoot out about 3 feet. This way...

Are you cracking the line at the pump or injector?

It looks like your ID tags and control panel are new? Where did you get those? I remember someone that sold overlays on steelsoldiers but I can't remember who?

Looks Great!

Make sure you verify the voltage with a volt meter. I had a unit with a defective gauge and I was troubleshooting everything until I realized the gauge was bad and reading 300+ volts.

smcrom, just curious if you worked out the issues with your generator?

PM means private message. :)

I agree, with the shear pin. There is a worm gear from the pto shaft that goes to a large ring gear. If an internal gear went bad, it would not work at all, it usually shatters. The shear pin may look ok but I bet it's sheered, take some pliers and try to pry back and forth. I have a feeling it...