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The purpose of the spring is to hold the filter tight against the block of the engine. If it's not there, the filter will just float around, letting oil go around it. I hope this helps you.

You are correct on the washers. The spring I used was about 1 inch in diameter and about 1.25 inches long (I had to cut it down to 1.25 inches). It has to be a stout spring, it can't be a light weight spring because you have to have resistance when your putting the filter on.

I went to the local hardware store and bought a large spring and cut it down to about 1 inch. I didn't use anything as the retainer, just make sure the spring has a large diameter or you could use a washer as a retainer. I've seen some on E-ba recently.

It should be on PC during the compression stroke. I have changed several pumps without using anything (drill bits, brass wires, etc), you just have to be real careful when putting it on.

Check out the WIKI tab at the top. It will tell you about the MEP-002a and MEP-003a which are the 2 most common. 002a is 5kw and 003a is 10kw both 60 hertz. If your new to mep generators, you may want to look at these 2 models. They are less complex than the newer 802a and 803a units.

Make sure you check your connections on the transducer and gauge. If they are faulty then you might consider Jimc's Hertz meters, they are cheaper than buying a transducer or gauge.

The best method I have found is pressure washing the tanks, I have tried everything and that is the best I have found. Also, on the big auction site that starts with E, has your nuts you are looking for $8.99

I had one unit that sat in a barn for 2 years before I got it. I drained the fuel refilled with fresh diesel. Let the pumps run for about 2 minutes and it fired right up. You shouldn't have any problems.

Yes get with JIMC, I bought several from him. They are top quality.

Something else to try on generators that produce 0 voltage or need the field flashed. Is to take an old drill and plug this into the convenience outlet, turn the drill head by hand in the reverse direction. It will actually generate power and flow back into the generator. I've never had to do...

I had a stator bad on one unit and I bought a 24volt A/C charger off Ebay. I mounted it under the control box and plugged the 110 plug into the convenient outlet. Has been working perfect for over a year.

This is on the 2nd page of the aux. forum. This thread will help with the conversion to 1 phase. It is also on youtube, posted by sewerzuk, the man who did all the work to make this possible...

There is a cover, inside the cab where the lever goes down to the transfer case. Take that cover off and you'll see the adjustment on you transfer case lever.

Delks will have one. I believe they are around $70.

Jimc this will be a great improvement to standard gauges. I'm not familiar with abs plastic and do you know the life expectancy in outside conditions. I'm just wondering if the plastic will start cracking or breaking down after 5yrs, 10yrs, 30yrs or never?

That's it, just hold it up to the master cylinder and 2 holes will match up. Also, it does need additional linkage to work the rear PTO.

I had a similar issue with a recent unit. Check you T2 transformer, below are causes of high voltage and the very bottom has the instructions on how to check the T2 transformer. 18. HIGH GENERATOR OUTPUT VOLTAGE (NO LOAD). Step 1. Check for voltage regulator failure. Remove voltage regulator...

What I do is spray between the injector and adapter (cooling fins) with wd-40, then lightly tap the adapter with a hammer. It will slid off with little force but in one case I had to really give the adapter a couple of good hits before it let go. Be careful with the adapter because it is...

"2, check fuel tank, clean, and repair as needed, I know a lot of people have ended up with bad fuel tanks, personally I have been lucky, I have bought about 10 or 11 pieces of diesel powered military equipment (generators, air compressors, water pump, heater, etc.) and only 2 have required...

I'm not sure on the M50 but the M35A2C is for the dropside beds. The C designates that it's a dropside for the M35.