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Guess the question is do the lights work normal if it is cut or removed.

The modulator is hooked to vacuum on the side. Pump pressure gotta pull the pan. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

These are the gaskets I used. Worked good. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Yeah you'll have to figure out what it does. That's something someone put in there. Probably start with what does the switch turn on and off. Gotta be careful with that with installing the brake stuff since it has to work every time. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Looks like the blackout switch without the lock on it. Does it switch at all? Up or down. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ok so sounds like the cylinder is worn out. I know you can rent the puller tool from advance auto but I'm not sure about the press for the c clip...some have that in it. Those are cheap to get though. Things I like to replace while in there are the parts for the horn...all of them! The insulator...

I've got a bunch of rims plus one brand new one...I get them whenever I can. Since I have 3 it's good to have spares. Look on marketplace for a 1009 part out. That's where I get mine. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Only thing that gives me a minor heartattack is the positive cable right over the home made steel battery hold down. The relay for the starter is a standard gm relay not a doghead but no big deal. Are all the wires still there for the drivers alternator? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

If that's all you got that's not a big deal at all. Looks like they unhooked the blackout switch and hooked it directly to the fuse box...not how I would have done it but ok. I see it next to a 5 amp fuse...I'd pull it and see if it is...headlights need 25 amps...be curious which fuse is feeding...

I've done that many times. I just pop it out and tap it in flush. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Using a manual switch is nice if the card is bad or the system needs help once in a while to get going. It's very simple to do...just ground the wire and the relay turns on. Cards are out there still so you can get a good one. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

The fun part of these is figuring out what the other owners did before. One thing about the wiring is it is extremely simple. Not that many wires to play with. If you haven't found the wiring in the tm yet it will be in the sticky at the beginning of the cucv stuff. Good to have. Sent from my...

I get people doing a swap but I got a 5$ box of 100 o rings that repair these. The water sensor leaks. Easy fix. I've got 4 of these trucks. The swap is around 50$...I save 195$ by keeping the box filter. I've collected at least a dozen of the filters from people that don't know how much they...

It sounds like pr buzz...old trans slang for pressure relief valve...it's in the front pump...be right at the front of the bell housing. Wonder if you unhook the modulator valve from vacuum if it stops. If fluid comes out it's bad! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

So you feel like moving here US for a month with that thing and get it all fixed up?? LOL just kidding....LMC has the 2 springs plus the rubber stoppers that go on the inside for soft opening. Part number 18 and 19. https://www.lmctruck.com/interior/glove-box/csb-1981-91-dashboard-components

See if you turn it off all the way to see if it'll lock the steering wheel. It should lock. If not changing the cylinder takes 2 pullers. One for the wheel and one for the spring lock under the horn. Not hard and not expensive. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

So the new green machine had this weird morning starting issue where is it start and run for about 5 seconds then shut off. Had to crank it several times before it would finally start and run for most of the day. If it sat for about 5 hours it would repeat again. My first move was to replace the...

Look on Facebook for a guy named Mike Morin...he has at least a dozen trucks and blazers torn apart or for sale. He'd have the dash, engine harness, starter and alternator. If you tell him what your doing he'll make sure you get what you need. Be easy to just pop a new harness in it than trying...

Yup can take it out in the truck. Yes the check balls will come out but the ones in the valve body stay in it and the ones in the case should stay in if you leave the top plate bolted in. It's a very messy job but not hard. The check balls would have to go in where the kit said so not the stock...

Ok...if it's shifting that hard then it's definitely not a modulator issue. To mild it out you'd have to drop the valve body and put the mild colored springs from the kit in. Looks like they popped the pressure valve out and swapped it too. Without the kit part number it's hard to guess exactly...