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That is a nice cooler!!

Ahh...he's got buckets of those!! 1/2x13. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Dang is there an exhaust shop that can bend one up?

Can you get the part from Dynomax there? Not from summit?

Oh geez!!! I am not sure if I'd try it unless it is super cheap!! The kit I got is from Dynomax Part number 89006 Not sure if you can get this out there but it's a start.

Which nuts are they? Where?

I went through the tm and in the axle section with the u joint it does not give a part number for it and I am not sure where else to look. The cap grease zerk is a needle style so just grab that end for your grease gun. Works great.

I just did the exhaust on my one 1009 and the kit I got fit both the truck and the blazer. Passenger side will need cut down as it is to long and hits the transfer case. If you don't have a welder then it can be very difficult to get exhaust to fit. Measure the downpipe drop and see if it is...

I could spend the time digging through some 80s tech manuals I have, but I won't. I've been filling cars from this era and long before for over 30 years this way, and it works. Underfilling would be gallons...this is just a few quarts in a several gallon system. Letting the rad cap, in its set...

Ok before I jump down the tm road...are you talking about the axle shaft u joint that goes in right at the ball joints? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Sorry I thought I was in the cucv section! Phone doesn't show it to easy. Disregard. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

You mean the voltage gauge in the upper cluster? Do you have a 24 volt system still? 2 alternators etc...if so I assume the starter is still 24 volt...if that works you can check the plug that comes out of the gauge for 24 volts...if you have that there a resistor on the back of the guage is...

The over flow won't do much until you shut it off hot. It'll pull coolant into the radiator if it needs it...it takes a few drive cycles to get it leveled out then might see some move into it once it gets to be summer time heat then pull it back in once it cools off. The radiator cap is pretty...

Yup let the over flow fill it where it wants it. These do take a very long time to heat up. Not sure if you know but the other point of having the correct lb cap is to raise the boiling point of the coolant. Something to think about especially if you live in a high elevation. Sent from my...

Oh ok there's your problem then...it needs room to expand. Gotta let it find its full. The cap does that. Since you fill it to the top it will push out the extra...explains the tight hoses too. Drop it 4 5 inches below the top and keep the over flow full to cold. Sent from my SM-S906U using...

Ok. I hate to assume either were good...but kinda have to. I have little faith in some parts stores. I'd look where the cap seals in the top of the radiator...see if it matches up with the cap seal and depth. Does the upper hose get tight still? And yes you can over fill it but the cap is the...

I'd say get a new radiator cap on it. I can't remember the pressure though. I think 14.5...but I'd have to look that up. The fill point is a little above the heater core return. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Sons spent months getting it straight. Gonna paint Sunday if the weather is good! He wants to take the top off and drive it to graduation. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I haven't used that yet but will on the next one. I've heard it works good. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

It's in primer now gonna do green n brown paint...found a guy that had nsn paint. It's old but should work fine. Good luck with the window! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk