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I speak with a lot of lmtv owners. Both non and ss members. (I always recommend they become members) My phone rings all day long with lmtv questions. For the most part, the non runners just need a little tlc and few parts here or there. Like above. Once you work out a few kinks you are rewarded...
Certain sites have more time tools and effort to put into getting a truck running. Other small sites if they press start and it does then its a runner, no go then non runner it is. But its always a gamble with a non running truck.
Take it apart post pics. Somewhere I have an alternator from a truck that was crashed. The alt got a bit crushed but might have a diode module or other small internal parts that are still good. Post a few pics of the dryer install if you get time. I keep meaning to do mine just hard to find time...
The alternator is modular and pieces can be replaced. I have never taken one apart though. Here is a pic of some ends I have, but they are for a different alternator. Just to give you an idea.
If the regulator is swapped with a good one and the alternator will not excite and produce voltage with a good ground strap and 24 volts at the regulator positive post then the alt is probably bad. You could look at the pins on the connector from alt to regulator. Could be a bent pin or...
Go right to the starter. You should have a big 24v cable going right to the batteries. On the starter solenoid there are 2 small posts, the one closest to the block is the positive to trigger the starter. Take a clip lead, clip onto that post. Touch the other end to the big positive on the starter
The system does recirculate itself. You can pump the hand primer and crank and few times and pump again and it will purge air thru the return I believe. I have done this several times without having to open a line or bolt.
It's not a big issue you will work it out I wouldn't worry about it. 24 from the fuse panel to the regulator 24v lead should excite it. Engine running of course. Don't rely on the dash volt meter use a digital one to verify everything. And while you are at it check the alt ground strap for...
I'm still thinking you don't have a good 24 volts to the 24 volt lead on the regulator. Without this the alternator will not excite and just spin without making voltage.
If you have 24 volts from the fuel solenoid positive lead to the positive lead on the regulator and the alt still won't make voltage then the regulator may be bad. Measure make sure you have 24v at the regulator. Nothing should be connected to the AC lead. Measure the 12/24 at the alt output...
The AC lead is actually and alternating current output from the alternator. Can be used to drive a tach or other small accessory. No idea why it was ever connected to begin with. Some newer A1 trucks use the lead with a newer gen polarity protection smart box behind the cab.
Disconnect both leads to the regulator. Tape up and abandon them. Take the outer connection on your fuel solenoid and run it around the engine to the positive 24 volt lead on the alt regulator.
What's a little fresh water in your day. Nothing a good rinsing and some new relays and maybe a trans ecu. Salt water now that's another thing. The 5 ton is gonna need more help though. Bet it sucked in water.
I always thought if the engine was running the exhaust could submerge and be ok. And the intake stack is pretty high. A Diesel engine should run on under water. Wonder if the airbox was not sealed well.
Me neither till I was curious and took one apart. There is a voltage regulator next to it I have yet to figure out what it does. Unplugging it dosnt seem to have much effect though. Maybe for the dash dimmer or something.
Tm had troubleshooting flow chart but there may be a relay used for brake lights. To the left of the steer column under the dash is a black break out box it has lighting connections in there not sure if all though. The light switches are known to go bad maybe the extra load of lighting the...
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