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Which I hope is a hint to spend an hour and go over EVERY fastener on the engine/truck… loose stuff can cause a lot worse than a squeaky balloon…

Drop to just 2 batteries, have them LOAD TESTED. Check EVERY connection between alt and battery. The LBCD samples the F- signal from the regulator to sense alternator load. When it senses the alt is being driven to full field/overloaded, it disconnects the batteries from the alt. If it is not...

Yep, no load, no boost. Also is your cab suspension inflated?

Well thats weird, if it was flowing all that hot fluid to the heat exchanger, it would be raising the engine coolant temp and the engine fan would be constantly engaged…

Any large truck shop should be able to point you to someone who can service the driveshafts. Measuring installed vibration works, it is just tedious and time consuming. You also need to be able to set the structure being balanced up in such a way that it allows movement so you can measure the...

The oil cooler fitment also applies to the 3116 and 3126. Of course if it is not correct it will tend to leak… Not as big a show-stopper as driveshaft vibrations shaking the engine accessories to failure…

Little late to ask now isn’t it:) No oil line of death, thats a 3116 thing. I think they worked the bugs mostly out of the HEUI system by the time they got to the C7. The 3126s would occasionally fracture a HP oil line, and they also made some improvements to secondary oil filtration in...

Yea right behind the fuel tank. That is close to where a winch would be mounted, so it may have something to do with that also…

Yea I may wind up doing the vertical slice thing, just because they are back in a channel. Which means I will have to swap discs more often to be able to reach the back of the channel thru the huck. I will try some this weekend, but have a lot of dirt to move. Love my cordless tools, but...

Yea the ones in the forward lift structure are kinda tight and surrounded by structure. I may have to work the disc up from the bottom and cur two at a time as there isn’t room to get to just one at a time… and of course some knucklehead did one set with the hucks on the inside of the frame...

Nice, Very nice!

And what happens if you try a turn signal or hazard flash application with the flasher unplugged? I would guess nothing will happen, and yes, I would say the flasher is bad… The standard mil flashers don’t seem to be all that robust. I replaced mine with a commercially available 3 wire solid...

Not yet, had to finish a house before I could get working on this…

You will probably have to remove the manifold from the block to tighten any fittings on it…

The yellow thing you circled is an oil distribution manifold. The black thing towards the bottom of the pic is the 15PSI oil pressure switch, and the bottom edge of the oil pressure gauge sender is just visible pointing up behind the power steering pump. Nice pic of the green air compressor...

98… You have to cut right thru where hex and collar meet(shave the top of the hex head) to bypass all the thread in the collar… I was expecting to have to unleash an air impact on the nut after I cut the collar, so them falling apart was a pleasant surprise… Will probably cut a few more today:)

Actually I just discovered it is not a nut with a locking collar… Removed 3 in just a few minutes with a angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. As soon as I cut thru the shank they went “Tink” and literally fell off… Like Olly said cut all the way thru the shank right where the hex head meets the...

Well that's the whole point, once the collar is out of the way its just a nut. The trick is doing it cleanly without damaging the threads. a cutoff should be able to give a clean cut threads and all that will allow the nut to unscrew. A plasma sure isnt going to do that…. Those hydraulic...

Well next time you get bit, stay in that spot, and hand the stinger to someone else and let them burn a little. I doubt you will get a shock… old dirty glove damp with sweat? What kind of welder, any high freq? This DC or AC stick?

What truck? The A0 and A1 schematics are in the pubs section at the top of the main forum page under present conflict vehicles. The A0 are in the back of each manual found there, the A1 is just a schematic by itself, no manual…