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If I was cutting it like that, I would cut both the collar and bolt/threads off clean. Will start with that using a cutoff wheel… I have a cut-50 and it is only good for about 3/8”… If I try it I might try cutting parallel with the bolt thru the nut and collar on opposite sides, then knock...

More likely fan solenoid Or control. Do you hear a whoosh of air from the passenger dash area when you turn off the main switch? The fan control solenoid is under the far right end of the passenger dash. It is right above eye level when standing beside the truck in the passenger door, with...

Well you were getting bit because you were holding half of the welding circuit in your hand and completing a circuit to ground with your hand on the stinger and some other part of your body to ground…. Wet sweaty hand on dirty damp stinger and sweaty skin on the frame… ever been shocked while...

All three of those are 2way check valves. They allow control of the brake systems by either the truck controls or the front gladhand. The bottom two are for front and rear service brakes and connect to pedal and blue service glad hand then back to those brake systems. The top one is for...

I have welded on lots of stuff over the years and never damaged any installed electronics. I associate with quite a few people who do the same thing and have never heard of anyone damaging any electronic component. Thats my experience anyway… As mentioned, my ground is always where I am...

Well like I said above, if you have air in the tanks, and you turn on the main switch, you should be able to rotate the fan freely. This is a good thing to do from time to time anyway, spin it and wiggle it around, see how much slop and drag the bearings have since those bearings are...

If you reach up under the radiator before you turn the truck on, the fan should be locked. When you turn on the main switch, with air in the tanks, the fan should release/freewheel. The thermal switch removes power to the fan solenoid which removes air to engage the fan at 205F. You should...

Most pickups I have ever messed with have them in some form…

It was probably just getting to proper temp by that point:) Did you get it warm enough for the fan to engage? Does this rig have a warmup switch(Engages ex brake to load engine)? Diesels like load, you can also chock the wheels and put it in drive to get it to full op temp/engage the fan…

It is a load sensing brake proportioning valve. Adding weight over the rear axle increases brake air applied to match the increase in traction available…

Yea, unless they are really loaded heavy…

The AOP is OK, but it and the manifold have their fair share of issues. I find it hard to believe your hand pump is bad… I am removing that mid structure so dropping to a hand only was a good decision for me, and also keeps inline with my KISS policy. i have used that type hand pump on dump...

The control valve cores are segmented by orings. A bad seal could let pressure pass right from inlet to outlet and have trouble building enough pressure to do the work… capping the outlet on the hand pump will prove if the hand pump is indeed bad. You should not be able to pump into a...

The installed hand pump is really small volume and only pumps in one direction so a normal lift takes 168 full pump strokes anyway... You could also have a bad control valve or pump check valve and I gave you some suggestions to try and narrow down the problem over in the other discussion...

Well it is about 4X too big, which means it needs 4X the cable size and will pull 4X the current needed to actually do the job, while sending 3/4 of the fluid thru the safety relief valve. The 0.8 GPM is I believe a typo based on the KW rating and the port size, and farther down in the...

Does the hand pump not work? Pretty common for the AOP to need seals/work… hard engagement into drive may be high idle RPM. As mentioned check the pedal and cable, and insure the governor control is returning completely to the idle RPM stop screw… It is virtually impossible to fully warm up...

Well unless you are towing something heavy, the liquid cooler should be providing all the cooling you need, like it does for all the trucks that don’t have an aux cooler. Another thought is that someone pulled the core out of that thermal regulator, you know, engines overheating, lets remove...

It is the thing mounted to the plate, seen between the hoses he has his fingers on in this picture… Note the P6/rear transmission cover in the background… it is probably a diverter, and has a thermal element like the bypass thermostat in the engine. It sends flow one way(like back thru the...

Yep, you need a functional oil sw for evertthing to work as intended. the oil pressure switch controls oil light and via K11 the starter and alternator. Those Nason switches are not all that common, but a 1/8” NPT threaded, 15PSI N.C(normally closed) oil pressure sw can be had at any auto...

The same circuit that powers the oil light on the dash also controls K11. No dash oil light or K11, no start. There are 2 oil pressure sensors, in your pic, the large one on top of the small oil manifold drives the oil pressure gauge, the smaller one on the oil manifold pointing toward the...