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Was the thrust bearing that failed in the C6 assembly, part number 7 in this diagram? Was looking at the note in the A0 TM about replacing it specifically, when you had the C6 cover/assembly off, on transmissions prior to a particular s/n… If it was identified as an issue back then you would...

The cut hub cap is good because you can use a dial indicator to measure the actual gear mesh/lash and compare it between hubs as you build them…

If you have to pull the hubs apart You can check and set the hub shim spec as mentioned above as seen in one of Neil’s videos with a custom machined fixture. Or you can use the Meritor procedure shown in the manual and demonstrated in this video… Either method works, you just need the parts...

Well the hubs share lube with the differential, but I would make sure there is oil out in the hubs and that the axle lube is up to it’s proper level. You check the hubs by putting it on a jackstand, removing a filler port on the hub and rolling the wheel till the port is at the 4 O-clock...

Well the A0 was a mechanical 3116 diesel, the A1 is a HEUI(electronic) 3126 diesel. they can use some different hardware like door handles, but most of the differences are electrical. For instance they used a different power dist panel and idiot light display. They added disconnect relays in...

There have been a few I have seen who found the room pretty close Behind the transfer case. The fans move all the air anyway, so you don’t really need much room. I don’t think the back pressure created by longer lines will be terrible, but I think you will find long 1-1/8” hoses not so cheap...

If you hooked TL99 to the + side of BT2, you fed 24V into the 12V system… It may have killed the flasher, although some are 12 or 24V. From what I have seen the flashers are kind if a high failure item anyway, so it may just be bad…

TL99 is your 12v lead to the PPD/cab and alt 12V terminal. It should be connected to the end of the 4 terminal zigzag. BT2 - is as good as anywhere, but it could be connected to any of the 4 terminals that the zigzag connects to(same point electrically) TL48 is your ground and should run to...

Like I said in the other post, you are going to have to trace the wires to be sure which is which. This is an area you need to be absolutely sure it’s right as you can do soe serious arc welding with the batteries and leads involved:)

It is impossible to determine from the photo which is which, except that short wire is probably a 24. You need to hand over hand them or use an ohm meter and check them one at a time. one 24 runs directly to the starter+ terminal one 24 runs to the 24 batt terminal on the polarity protection...

That will kill the vampire. The main switch turns on the 24V control/ign power relay using 12V, so cutting off only the 12 at the battery completely disables the vehicle and all the lighting as those are always hot…

The fittings on the hydro manifold are the same as on the hand pump(SAE-4 TO JIC-4 adapters). If you have a hand pump, you can re-use one of the lines from the manifold and connect it from the pump output to the T connection that feeds the latch and the lift side of the cab cylinder. that T is...

I was thinking the same thing, mounted hard-lines with jumpers at either end as that is a long run back to the tail end of the frame. I am going to do the same thing with that sample port, fit a temp sensor:) is this to accommodate a box/habitat? I have seen some install it right behind the...

Yep, a pair of 31’s is a much better matchup to the engine and electrical system… The alternator also says thanks:) Another thing these trucks need, especially if they set more than they drive, is either a balancer and float charger combination, or a disconnect switch to deal with the 12v...

There is only one sensor in there, you literally cannot miss it:) remove the cover circled in red. You can use an ohm meter to check the resistance between 200-400 ohms… I think this diagram may be in error as to what the sensor actually looks like as I have seen other diagrams(I think in the...

Well that pump adapter is toast… this either happened when it got loose, the shafts misaligned and the tab rode up on the edge of the notch forcing the pump back and breaking that adapter assembly, or it wasn’t aligned when you went to replace the missing bolt and bolt compression force broke...

Oh, the PS pump has a shaft with a rectangular tooth across the middle of the end of the shaft, that mates with the compressor crankshaft that has a notch across the middle. If these became separated and rotated, you must completely remove the PS pump, rotate the pump shaft tooth with a wrench...

The power steering uses it’s own 10wt hydraulic oil in it’s own small reservoir behind the pump. Loss of engine oil can be a few things. If the PS pump is not in place you could be leaking out of the rear of the air compressor where the PS pump should be sealing the opening. At the rear of...

Under, meaning under the entire dash behind the passenger kick-panel… aluminum heat-synced case with 3 pin cannon plug. Replaced mine with a solid state flasher module…

Victron makes a 70A unit with adjustable output and a remote on/off feature for about $140 so you would not need a relay in the main circuit. It’s cutoff voltage is 18V which might start to tickle the limits during a cold engine crank, but if the main power circuit was shifted to 24V it would...