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It will if you pay attention to some details: The main control relay that provides 24V switched/ignition power, is actually energized by 12V. So whatever power converter is used, you want to have a low cutoff voltage, otherwise it may shutoff the main relay when you try to crank. These...

$10 stepdown? Please share, or was this a typo? I was figuring $100-200 for a bussman 100A converter to provide 12V. Still an order of magnitude cheaper than most all of the surplus dual volts available, and a straight 24V battery bank will last a good long time without fudzing with the 12v...

Correct, unplug the controller and CTIS stops. The easiest way to look for air leaks is to apply 120PSI of shop air to the front emergency glad-hand. This will charge the air system and allow you to look for leaking without the cat purring… chock the wheels, as applying air to the front...

You should be able to warm the coating to remove it. I have placed potted assemblies in near to boiling hot water before to soften the sealant/potting compound for easy removal. You only need about 200F or so, which is not enough heat to damage anything else on the circuit board. Then you can...

Yea, the device in the 3rd pic is the CTIS dump valve(ised to steer airflow and vent tire air when lowering pressure). If it’s dumping oil from there, you have a hub seal issue. Also look closely at the axle vent line which runs up to a frame vent port in that area also. since CTIS is under...

Yea, trans power starts at CB79 once the main sw is on. I would also measure the voltage at the PDP test points as you turn things on. A bad connection at the LBCD or a bad ground could be killing your voltage under load.

A few things to rule out as the alt doesn’t output until it gets turned on by K11, which de-energizes when the engine sees 15psi of oil pressure. Since it uses the de-energized contacts of K11(pin30-47A), K11 must be a 5 pin relay. The relay shifts power down thru Kll to the forward terminal...

That is where the trans wiring harness connects to the transfer case internal pigtail. This connector is on the front side of the transfer and if dirty/corroded could cause you speedo issues. The access cover for the sensor itself is around on the backside of the transfer case. The sensor is...

Yea, I don’t think there is anything about checking output voltage in the LMTV manual but it is easy enough to do. Most MPU,s should be able to make 2.5VAC pretty easilly.

That one is all the way back in the transfer case. On the back side there is a flat plate cover held on with bolts. It’s in there where it can sense a final output gear RPM. That sensor lookes like a key you would use to wind a clock…

Guyfang, He mentioned it down in the pics. You screw it in till it touches a tooth then back it out 2 turns. You need to look inside the whole though and make sure you are directly over a rooth and not a valley. That sensor is pretty wide though so this might not be an issue with this...

Well you should be able to find a bushing to match the threads, and some stainless tube and 10-15 minutes to tig them together…

There is one A1 schematic here on SS in the manuals section under present conflict vehicles, end of page 1 or start of page 2 near the 1078 A0 manuals…

Yea, D10 Blazer, you never did say what year truck this is? The pic I posted was for an A0 power dist panel cover/location diagram. A 2010 truck is most likley an A1R version and uses a completely different power distribution scheme(4 waterproof off the shelf relay and fuse modules)…

Yep, tank is steel valve assembly is brass, so maybe some corrosion in the threads… penetrating oil, a strap wrench(or channel-locks) and some shocks delivered to the valve assembly with a hammer should do it…

Yea, they went to DRMO for a reason…

Where exactly is the air coming from? Could simply be a leak and the air piston cannot build enough pressure to cycle against the hydraulic resistance. It could be the mechanism is stuck mid cycle or has a bad air piston seal… someone did a video showing an overhaul, think it is on youtube…

In the upper left corner of the instrument panel is a switch that will apply 24v to the fan control solenoid valve and force the fan to freewheel/keep it from engaging. It is for driving into/fording deep water where a coupled fan might get damaged…

Or just use a gasket and/or sealant under the plate… It is not a lot of pressure… a plate could also incorporate a guard or even a cover for the Schrader fitting to protect it…

that regulator looking thing is a protection valve. It works just like the wheel valves except it takes 85PSI on the wet tank side to open and allow air out, so it won’t let CTIS draw the wet tank below 85 PSI. y0u can(and should) confirm this with a gauge connected to the wet tank. The...