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The factory trailer plug on my M1008A1 is 24v. Have looked underneath and it’s not hacked or been modified. All original Lights on both my M101A2’s work perfect when hooked up to it.

The issue isn’t being able to tow it down the road or getting off the freeway nice and easy. The problem is a big, heavy trailer with no brakes, unless you have a 2 1/2 or 5 ton truck. It’s over a ton just sitting there empty. Add any load all the way up to gross. Sure, tows fine. 3/4 or 1...

A long drive on a hot day to get the flat spots out will help a lot. At least there’s quite a few new surplus tires around.

Have read that some of the NOS ones have the diaphragm dry rotted. Just FYI

Moving and towing it is the easy part. Stopping it is a whole different story.

Post pics direct to SS website per forum rules. Those links will eventually go bad.

Here’s one way. Pretty typical utilization.

Like mentioned, what do you mean “by itself”? Vertical Fin and Horizontal stabilizers? Gearboxes? T/R Driveshaft? Control tubes? Wiring? Etc........ Look in the -10 It should be in there. Might not break it down as far as you need it, but will give you a starting point. I haven’t hardly...

Sounds like a government operation........ Let it sit and rot. What a waste........sigh

Is it the wire that’s supposed to go to the RR marker light? All your lights working? A pic would be great. My M925A2 doesn’t have an extra wire at that location. My Truck-Lite LED taillights do have an extra ground wire, but that’s on the light assembly, not the truck.

Hydro-Act (OEM MFG) does make up to a 12,500lb model, so the beefier models will definitely handle the weight. I don’t know if it would fit physically. Not sure of the frame angles on the M105A2 vs M101A2/3. Pic is a M105A3 surge brake assembly. It’s a lot heavier unit it looks like...

M101A2 Surge brake shock failed on my tan trailer. Searched for well over an hour Saturday night on the net trying to find the best price on the p/n 1844-2 shock. (Croft Trailer has the best price BTW). Was about to buy one from Croft and came across a eBay listing. Boy did I luck out! So...

Ok Good to know

I’ve read here on SS of guys doing that backing up their driveway, not knowing the brakes needed to be locked out. Some even kept trying until parts broke.

Dexter FreeBack brakes. Easy swap and hassle free. Biggest pain was putting trailer on jacks. Dexter makes great stuff and is the OEM Military supplier for some of the M101A2/3 parts.

Off roading or 4 wheeling? I’ve read it’s mostly personal preference on whether to disable them or not. If the trailer is loaded at all and you try to back up an incline, the brakes will activate. Always carry a pin or bolt to lock them out. Dexter makes a surge brake unit called FreeBack...

The hole just forward of my lockout pin.

It’s for overall hardness of the steel is my understanding. Its heat treated differently. The shear strength is improved along with the tensile strength. Grade 10 isn’t usually carried by the box stores but that’s a bit overkill anyway.

You’ve gone this far, might as well install the whole thing. Last time I was in the mountains of Utah, temps dropped to -18*. To me, that definitely qualifies install of whole kit.

Grade 5 isn’t strong enough if trailers heavy. Others have done that and it bent the bolt. Making removal a total nightmare. Several threads about it.