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You might want to consider one or two in-line check valves after your T so it can't drain the air back in case of a leak or having used the air from one system.

They usually stay in once you have them pushed back. But you have to have the switch in the run position, not the off position. Then it will release and shut the truck off when the truck switch is turned off. Keeps the local teens from just taking off with it too.

When my battery's are low, the fuel shutoff solenoid will not pull in and the truck, while cranking, will not start and run. Once I manually push the solenoid in, it stays and starts up and will run normally. Check to see that the solenoid is going in and staying in. I have to agree with...

My personal opinion is to leave the frame full length and have the axle slightly forward of the present rear axle position. But I want to keep the pintle for heavy hauling and that requires the rear axle to pintle distance to be short. It will require a driveshaft fabrication (longer)...

Trailers I use truck rear end, I use entire clip, frame, mounts springs ...all of it. Sometimes I use a heavy angle to make the top of the (vehicle) frame flat to match the bed. When I use Dexter axles, I make a frame and connect it to the bed. The frame on one M105 included hinges and...

When you mentioned brown, I thought (3 or 4 color) camo and the current colors. Myself, I like black lower, even with majority green. Happy painting!

Has anyone made one from UHMW plastic and (something like) bolt/stud w/washer?

BB88, don't forget the FS black that goes with the 383 green and brown. There is a blue component in FS "black" that most blacks don't have and it does make a difference (looks good next to a new painted rebuild).

MAA, I wanted to do that and as you know bought a bed to do it. My reason was to use the fixed sides of the deuce bed for a dump trailer, lower to the ground and then have side access to the deuce bed. What is your reason for wanting one on a deuce? And there you go to get one cheap....98G...

Not the same as your shop truck, but I've had 2 dump trucks, an 817 with 11.00-20 duals and an M929A2 with 14.00-20's. Carrying a load, like your truck with a high center of gravity (and my loaded dump)....the 11.00 dual was much more stable. I'd like to go dual 12.00r20 in place of the 14.00's.

The weight that GL had, said 2600# and there is 100# of wood attached. I'm not sure it weighs that much, it lifted rather easily.

PM if interested in an LMTV bed. Warning---not tree-proof

I have about 15% of a cool truck. I'm going to take pictures of the four places in the bed for some tube structure to go into on top of the bed. They have some type of a plug, but must have some purpose as they extend through the bed.

Can you tell what model this bed is from? Obviously not a 1082. I'm not familiar with LMTV If I make a trailer, I wonder what purpose they could be used for, if anything.

Bought this and am wondering what the pull out tubes are for. They appear to be a stabilizer of some type. Also, what are all the other stowage places for? They look like a great place for some custom made slide in tool boxes.

Oh...yes....sides are aluminum, I was thinking about the slide out tube, it's steel.

No steel, with UHMW plastic . That appears to be a stabilizer. There is one on each side that pulls out and has a pin to hold it at about that distance out. I'm hoping someone knows what the rest of it looks like.

Thanks AA. I'm surprised at how lightweight the sides and gate are. I was shocked at how much the govt. paid for all the bells and whistles on the LMTV bed. They surely drive the cost up and it looks like it will bend easier...much easier. The rigid sides of the Deuce would make a better...

This might be a trailer candidate or sell. Home from GL (posted more pics in Auction won). How would the tandem HMMWV wheels on Dexter axles go together with this bed as a trailer. I was going to replace the M35A3 bed and make a dump trailer out of it, even made a sub frame, but this bed...

The seal above looks different than mine.