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While they are better in many ways, there are still very few that come up for sale. If you want a good quality m1079A1R, you're likely going to be waiting a while.

Not much to add, but I got 2 black controllers on eBay that were thrown away, no warranty, like $35 each. Both function perfectly fine. Sample size of 2.

I replaced my suction line and it wasn't anywhere near that. Something like 20 pumps.

With my manual setup, I removed the flow restriction orifice on the return side of the cab lift cylinder (non pressure side so safety spring balls still in place), that seems to have cured the issue with the overflowing of the reservoir as the cylinder can suck the fluid in easier. Before I did...

Turned out the power side was just fine it was the ground side that was the issue. The ground was good all the way up to the back prong of the outlet, somehow there was a break between the back prong and the outer barrel. Got lucky and just happened to have a panel power outlet that looks like...

Thanks for those pictures, never seen the inside. Was hoping to figure out how the power got in (wire number, connector number). Not sure if that power is shared with other things in that pdp or not. Well guess I get to open it up and investigate.

Yep

No +12V on either side of CB84

The "cigarette plug" - passenger side kick panel

Attached wiring schematics (this one is modified to be text searchable). The TMs are significantly more of a pain as you can't just read through the pages the same way you can the PDF TMs from earlier models. As stated above, post your question and someone likely can help. If you really want to...

Any concerns about welding weakening the frame? This is a common thing people bring up, but from drilling holes it doesn't seem like the frame is a really high tensile steel.

Figured it was just unplugged, but nope. Also checked power at the fuse and nothing. This is an a1r. Power is going into the pdp so it seems strange power is not at the fuse input, and the TMs indicate nothing else in the way of the distribution. Before I try opening the pdp and breaking aging...

I use red n tacky, it has a drop point of 540 and bigger numbers are better right? Nlgi #2. I'm no lubrication engineer but suspect as long as grit, water, salt etc are kept out and pretty much any brand of grease is in there, probably good to go for pretty much any use case.

That's correct.

Thank you for the educated info. When I started reading into RV solar systems (have a victron system) it was amazing the number of uneducated, unscientific group think is out there. The whole ferrule, lugs, crimping discussions are other areas of claims with no data.

Run away. These kinds of things are a bad idea. Not positive about 3126, but c7 you can load a map up to 370hp.

Agreed, looks in decent shape (no telling about inside though)

You can't (shouldn't really) try to replace the studs. They are epoxied in and custom (stepped with different threads. I got a new one on ebay and some others have had good luck with the seller. Just search for 76761-N2003 and you'll see the $200 listing.

I'm almost positive its 40F, I saw this documented in the manuals some where but can't find it right now. I'm in WI and got to experience this a lot last winter as well. It certainly works well too, when it gets cold enough to use ether the truck starts up very quickly.

I found a screwdriver worked great. You need to know what you're doing and work the seal in but it worked better than the seal driver I had (don't have a press)