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Curious to find out what the problem is. I had some strange issues with mine and went down a similar course. Ended up with two issues, front CTIS pressure line to the hubs were porus and leaking through the hose itself and also a faulty relief valve on pcu.
Nearly all of the ECU/ECM manufacturers require them to be disconnected when welding.
HETs actually have a chart listing it on their door.
Hopefully it's not an electrical issue, but if I have to do welding on my truck again I'm going to make sure to disconnect all the ECUs and ECMs as they are...
Yes a spring will likely work just fine too (with the stock gear). That said, finding one would be difficult in this size.
Springs obviously compress so you still have a risk that it could compress enough to release the pin lock. Likely? No but something to be aware of. The CTE mismatch really...
These things are often a gamble (just like all the fmtv electronic parts I buy on eBay and sometimes get screwed on). Sometimes you get lucky sometimes not. I haven't ventured into the heater stuff yet but it's on my long list of things to do
That doesn't jive with my experience, same situation mine will roll down my driveway in neutral and engine running. I do have some drag but I think it's from a sticky brake.
I am an engineer :)
The angle iron is 3/16 while the shipping container c channel is 1/8. The shipping container deflected.
It's a really complicated issue, where to add stiffness, compliance, high/low tensile, etc. I have all the tools to make FEA models but garbage in garbage out. Much...
I should have taken a picture when flexed as it was more dramatic, but there is still some small amount of plastic deformation in the area of the forwardmost bolt shown. None of the others have any plastic deformation. I have ordered springs, bolts, washers for all 30 tie in locations to replace...
I like playing devil's advocate and since we have a lot against the 2:1 I'll give some advantages of keeping them:
1. 1/2 the torque on your drivetrain components upstream of the hubs. In extreme scenarios you are way less likely to break something.
2: It takes much less time for engine to get...
That was someone else's. Mine had abs light on with no codes, weird reading for battery voltage, and wouldn't respond to modulator tests. Looked like a small amount of water got in a messed things up.
Playing with thermal camera after today's test drive. Can see the heater works well :) Eco hubs are pretty much same temp as the tire as well.
New(old) ABS computer arrived and works. The old one I could connect to but had some weird behavior, new one functions as it should. Tested out all...
I'm not doing that, I flip the cab a lot and pulling that seal, it's grip weakens every time. The whole reason I didn't buy a pre-done RV was because of low quality engineering. I'll make a robust and relatively quick latching mechanism that doesn't get damaged every time it's used.
Working on the design for the passthrough. Mix between engineering hours, local machine shop capabilities, keeping it KISS.
Planning for door on each side, using some electrical boxes on the ends for that. Need to find a way to support the separation flange when tilting cab(where the gap is...
Picked up kids from school and stopped by the local park since the wanted to throw rocks at the ice.
Did research doors for the passthrough, thinking of using a Hammond electrical cabinet.
So that exact air cleaner isn't listed in their PDFs, however it has the identical size filter as D100398.
For a fairly close estimate, the CFM of your motor is 709 CFM. A PSD10 series can be used but I would use 2 of them for your engine output. See the highlighted items below for the...
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