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Totally depends on size, they have many offerings. What part number do you have and also what engine/power output?

Yep, I know, just not a high priority as I'm not following conveys or in desert. It will be a very simple thing to do though.

For reference, this is part number D120037(D120339). I did look at the flow calcs and the engine recommendations from Donaldson. The filter restriction fitting also screws directly in. Not sure if I will reconnect the aux hose to exhaust... So many other things to do

Installed the new air filter. Uses factory rubber boots and intake piping. Plan to have pass through above the filter, right behind the driver.

Service or parking diaphram? I heard they changed through the years too.

Pretty sure A1 trucks have the button for injection, although likely some interlocks?

With yours, since it's not a A1R, you have a switch correct? Not sure what it will allow/not. Mine is totally ECM controlled and I have no ether button on A1R. The NAPA cylinder I got is KAT 33118, the gaskets are KAT 33119 (these are cork and not awesome). The cylinder is not opened at all...

QS4-6SS, got the last one from dpequipment.com Yes works as it should, looks identical to the one I took off.

Made 5 more and installed them today, verified clearance to inner gear of all and they were all about the same, right about 0.050". This is without any shims. The two loose wheel bearings took about 180 degrees to get to 15 ft lbs.

From an engineering perspective, many plastics would work well for this. Teflon(PTFE) is a go to for temp resistance and chemical resistance. Have to verify chemical resistance and max temp of whatever plastic used. Delrin may be a good option. I didn't want to do that much research as plastics...

Was a little concerned about the small m5 cap screw that was the only thing keeping the wheel nut from loosening, so I did a modification: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/from-fire-truck-to-mtv.216741/post-2544472

Wasn't a big fan of the split collar that came with the ECO hubs, mine is the one with an M5 screw. Considering if that clamp failed, the entire wheel would detach I started looking at another solution. This got kicked into high gear when I checked for wheel bearing tightness and I had play in...

Got a perfectly working CTIS controller for $39 that way, not all can be winners though.

I've had good luck with ASA in "high" temp areas.

Sounds good I'll contact you if this next one is also bad. It's already shipped.

Do you know if it's a known good one?

Chasing down ABS issues still. My board had some signs of water inside...the newer replacement looked better on the outside but inside was a mess. So basically no progress.

Ordered a used ABS module off ebay. Looked a heck of a lot better than mine did...on the outside. I plugged it in but couldn't talk to it at all. Decided to pull it apart and see what I could find...well it's pretty obvious why it wasn't working: Then I decided to pull my original one apart...

Seems like getting the spade back after a pull could be very difficult depending what it drove into/how deep.