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Just cap off the two hydraulic lines going to/from the kneeling cylinders on the backside of the manifold. Oh, and supposedly unbolting the cylinders is a compete pain. Probably not worth the effort.

Good to know! Will try out the new lbcd and see if that changes things. It's also got 4x generic group 24(?) batteries currently so I'm not sure their performance

Awesome, that's the place I found. I have the 100amp alternator and it will not run (orange flashing) while the intake heater is on. Boy does that thing draw some power. May be over the safe limit for mine, your 260 would likely fair far better with no lbcd

They are all connected, I wouldn't be surprised if you have some valve stem cores in your rear wheels.

Yeah I saw that. The back has no discoloration and the internal threads look good. I'm sure I could spend the time to fix it up but juice worth the squeeze for old caps... probably not. I see a whole load of them for sale from a vendor on eBay, although they don't look as nice condition as the...

Well that's a strange stepped stud, hard to tell but looks like there might be a bevel washer where that nut came out. Looks like the nut had to be epoxied while the stud was installed as well.

Soo....is this normal or a really odd repair?

Checked some voltages: Battery voltage: 12.48-12.51 for all 4 Ignition on voltage - at batteries: 12.33V Cranking voltage min - at batteries: 10.13V At terminal under PDP and at ABS ecm between both +12v and both ground wires mirrored the voltages at PDP Ignition on: 11.34V Cranking voltage...

Well checked under the PDP and found a lot of power distribution stud nuts finger tight. Also some corrosion to clean off. Found paint under the chassis ground stud as well. Fixed everything but still same situation with ABS. The "ignition voltage" is still reading under the "battery voltage"...

Using the stock pump, waiting on a vented pump cap to arrive. Nice solution on the mount. I'm going to see if I can add the plate that went over the air/oil pump back on. Would give lots of protection and I like using it as a step :)

The box will be about where that cross rail is in your picture, looks like still a few inches to that beam.

I did that the other day, although I just tried to install it as fast as possible to save as much coolant as I could....works okay, was only a few seconds but you're right it comes out real fast!

Cut some isolaters for the box to frame interface from HDPE. Hopefully box to be mounted this week. Removed the air over oil pump and about 8 hydraulic lines I won't need (suspension cylinders, feed and return from aoo pump). Did have some issues with the spare tire cylinder locking up but...

Makes sense why my cab never comes down straight and shifts when it hits the latch.

Seriously? Dang I need to look at my truck, I never considered they would have such an imbalance. Sorry completely my mistake.

All A0 and A1 FMTV have two cab lift hydraulic cylinders Edit: nope they don't! Just one

Cab lift uses two cylinders.

Yep, same numbers, I did it for both 16" stroke on cab, plus the tire 18" so 50" total 50"*.7854= 39.2 in^3

Looks like there is one with the same specs and a 65in^3 reservoir

Yep saw your video, nicely done. Looks like 35 in^3 is the usable volume of the stock pump: Cab lift 2x 1"dia x 16(max)" stroke Tire lift 1"dia x 18(max)" stroke (16*2+18)*pi*0.5^2 = 39.3 in^3 needed for both at full extension The actual stroke is a little less that then values above but I...