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That certainly doesn't sound right. Do you have the ability to load test it at multiple values to cross check against the meter? Have you cleaned the switch?
The meters on those are notorious for being inaccurate.
See if this link works any better - https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOljmSiRGDA3m1c__1bRARTkCZxLn6RhjfqrYSWjzv5Q5dn78jweV2N3liatEqjcw?key=UktITlIyXzlBb2dmQWNKWUNlMmVTUENobm9MWGtB
Dude.. That is WAY too much to be typing with a virtual keyboard. WOW.
What I have written below is not an attempt to convince you to change what you are doing. It is an explanation of why things have evolved to where they are today.
A couple of things from your post above. Neutrals.. They...
Yea, I understand that. If removing the jumper makes that possible then there is a wiring fault somewhere. The chassis should remain grounded in a 4 wire system if the jumper is removed.
Please understand that I'm not telling you what to do. All I'm doing is trying to explain the framework of the rules. The choice to follow them is 100% in your court.
I do have a concern with one of your comments. If there is something that allows for a hot chassis with the bonding jumper...
My comment is correct. If you look at the NEC (which is national and not local) it does state that with a 4 wire system the neutral and ground is bonded in only one location for the entire system. When you connect a generator it becomes part of the system unless you are off-grid. In this case...
The surge rating of the generator is insignificant compared to the surge rating of your utility power. When you look at a breaker rating you will see something like "KAIR" or "AIR". that is the current interrupting ability. Your breakers should be good for 10,000 AIR (10KAIR). A 803 I doubt is...
Ok, lets try again!
I TOTALLY relate to that! :)
I do recommend having some spare wear parts on hand so you can get something going in a pinch. A set of brushes and a bendix would be at the top of that list. Obviously having a complete starter on hand is best if you have the space and...
Ah. Ok. They are fun to play with but thats about it. I doubt most of us using them for simple backup would have a use for it.
The contactor setup inside would be good to keep.
Thats really a load shifter so you can take a unit down for service. It waits till both generators get in phase and in a split second it moves the load from one generator to the other.
These units are not designed to run in parallel.
1-2% is a good number. 128 ounces in a gallon. To rough it in you add 2-3 ounces per gallon (for 2%) and you are good to go.
If you want to hit it pretty close on the head you'd add 13 ounces to 5 gallons.
For 1% you would go 7.5 oz.
Some photos would help.
The alternator being out of the circuit is not going to directly cause what you are describing. Its too early to jump to conclusions. Lets see as many photos as you can supply and start figuring out what happened.
I'm in a place where cell service is a challenge. The frequencies that cell phones operate are very easy to block. Especially by metal. Where I live the problem is trees. My situation is horrible due to the ever changing nature of the environment. Your situation should be much more manageable...
Depending on the size of your AC unit the low cost option may be to put a soft start on it. You can see where others have done it and have been able to start decent sized AC with a 802.
Based on my experience they are being grabbed due to failure.
I suspect the conformal coating is failing on the boards and they start suffering from moisture related issues. I have a few 831s that I plan to swap parts around and make a couple of runners. I want to dig into the inverter at some...
Thanks for the report. I made the decision to have a 831 in the mix for the same reasons. When the load in the house is low the 831 is the perfect little machine to have online. Its a little louder than my 803 but it's a fuel sipper for sure.
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