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Strongly advise against it. I've seen it go badly with a megawatt sized generator. Had to replace a bunch of parts. It was ugly. Cool to witness but ugly. The grid don't play. It will trash your stuff and not even blink.

i doubt anyone will be doing a sustained load above that long enough to matter in a residential backup scenario.

I've wanted to buy the ones on the classified. They look like great pieces of gear.

True and this also will not matter for virtually any modern appliance.

That has been discussed a number of times. The short version is - If you are doing backup emergency power don't worry about it. You aren't going to run the unit long enough to matter. BUT - If you are off grid its not the right generator for the job. BUT BUT if you are off grid why not wire...

The safest way is to use a double ended transfer switch. That makes sure you can't export power to the grid while you are on generator power. Since the 804 is a 3 phase only generator you'll be limited to 2/3rds capacity max.

Is the flicker the same regardless of the load on the generator? When you have the scope out look at the VR output too.

That's a difficult to answer question. Many variables to understand. From a practical standpoint here are my estimates based on what I've learned over the years. This assumes single phase cap start. Fractional to 2HP - no problem. Will start reliably. 2.5HP - 5HP - 50/50. Above 3HP you need...

You'll need to check the schematic. I would bet you have 2 relays in the air handler that close the aux heat contactor. One for defrost and one for emergency heat. The emergency heat wire from the thermostat will be in parallel with the thermostat from the outside unit. The defrost should be a...

Mine has 2 banks of heat strips with each bank on its own circuit. I have the one bank disconnected from the circuit it shares with the fan. With that I can control the remaining bank with the circuit breaker. A single bank is enough for my home. If if you don't have a setup like that you can...

In NC no tag is required for generators.

The 802/803 engines are a different design without a prechamber. They do not require preheat like the air cooled models do. I ran my brothers 802 over New Years with temps in the teens. Zero preheat. Fired up after a few seconds. No problem. That won't work with the 002/003 models.

Have you done a proper load test and compared the frequency stability to the manual? Have you checked all the mechanical components of the governor? Is the engine sound actually changing such you think the RPM itself is changing? Have you verified frequency with an external instrument?

For me, I prefer to not have a smart meter but its hard to avoid it without paying a large fee to skip the technology. Duke Energy charges a monthly fee of $45 to send someone out to read your meter. That said I figured since I have it I will attempt to make the most use of it I can. I've also...

A few months ago my power company installed a new power meter on my house. One of those "smart" meters. As far out in the woods as I am, I'm not far enough! They finally caught up to me. ;) I already had a pretty good handle on my power usage using amp and power meters. I was curious to see how...

These look to have the same specs and are cheaper to boot. https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/ohmite/b20j7r5e?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIGDEM%2F0yB0jqKKv2VipyT8M%3D

There is a 803 on a trailer listed on the charlotte Craigslist for $5500.

You're welcome. I'm glad its beneficial to the community. There will be more drawings restored as time allows.

I don't have any bad inverters. I have one bad engine and one bad PMA.

For general board cleaning I use DI water and/or IPA. Back before the EPA got involved in this stuff we used R11 refrigerant to clean boards. Worked great but was horrible for the environment. Removing that coating will require a compatible solvent. One I would suggest trying acetone. Cross...