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I just replaced my fast idle solenoid today $98.00 on Ebay was the cheapest I could find it. The technical name and part number are as follows......ACdelco...fuel injection idle speed actuator, #14066255. Mine was shutting off prematurely. when I took it off all the guts were loose.

Yes, that's what makes me think it's the fast idle solenoid and not the temp sensor. But To apply my own good advise I should replace both just because they're 30+ yrs old. It's just hard to get past the sticker shock. I was able to find the solenoid for $98.00 + free shipping, and the sensor...

Oh okay, so what's the one mirrored on the drivers side then? It looks the same, is it something else? Or are these a pair that need to be replaced as such?

Well that didn't work. I looked for the temp sensor. But all I saw was some sort of sensor on both heads that seems to have something to do with the glow plugs, are those it? Or is there a single one somewhere else?

Well I took the dust cover off and blew it out with some compressed air, hit it with some WD40, and cleaned & greased the connections. There was a good bit of dust in it so maybe this will fix it? I'll know tomorrow morning I guess.

So over the past 3 days when I start the truck in the morning my high idle solenoid keeps shutting off prematurely. It re-engages if I blip the throttle, but I have to do it 3-4 times till the truck is properly warmed. Do I need to just replace it, or does it just need to be cleaned or something?

Sounds like the notorious loose flywheel bolts to me. If your lucky it's the bolts or nuts to the torque converter check those first. Otherwise it would be the bolts to the crank. You may not be able to tell just buy moving it by hand. Try looking at it with the truck running and a trustworthy...

I was doing some research on those Toyo's and they look pretty promising. They're cheaper then the Good year Duratrac's I just bought and are supposed to last twice as long. Maybe a little less tread depth but I really don't go off road much so eh. What kind of mileage did you get out of those?

If your wanting to keep everything stock for better highway driving here's what the new version of the Good years ( Goodyear Duratrac 235/85) look like... They're only slightly different looking then the originals. The originals that were on my M1028 were Goodyear work horse extra grip.. They...

That looks really good[thumbzup]!! I like it even though I liked the yellow bumper:wink:, Maybe you could paint the hook & D-rings yellow for nostalgic purposes. Have you had a chance to try out the winch? And how bad was getting it rebuilt?

Oh oh this is getting good:popcorn:..... There are obviously several variables to this subject such as ,(climate, or climates the truck is operating in.(arctic circle, desert, etc), (terrain-hills, mountains, or flat), (all while-commuting, hauling, towing, off roading ), (circumcised or...

Here's what I did A good bit of work but it's inset, out of the way, and not getting snagged constantly. I used (2) 1/4" thick L-brackets butted together to form the bottom and sides and a some 16-gauge plate for the back. As for lights I just used a pair of those hotrod LED lighted top bolts...

Agree with Lonnie, a Trans temp gauge will answer all these questions.

No one of those heat shrink butt connectors. I was able to slide the wire back in and crimp the heck out of it. Then melted it closed followed buy some liquid electrical tape. Hopefully that'll hold it. If not I'll just have to bite the bullet and solder it.

I found it !:naner: When I first bought the truck I tapped into the drivers side tail light harness to power my custom tag lights. The wire inside the butt connector just came loose. It wasn't obvious until I removed all the electrical tape. Thanks everyone for your input.

Could have just bin some moisture got in caused some havoc. But also if they were the original calipers and wheel cylinders they really needed to be replaced anyways. Vehicles that have or do, sit for extended periods of time always develop sticking brake components. It happens real bad in...

No you got it right. It's just the drivers side running lights. The blinker and brake light still works.

Yeah I checked all 3 plugs at the back of the truck. Both left and right 3 prong taillight plugs. And the big main plug over top of the spare tire. Because electrical problems throw me for a loop I use dielectric grease on everything. I wasn't getting power at the big main plug so the problems...

(Disclaimer, wiring is a mystery to me)..... So my drivers side taillight is haunted:shock:. The blinker works , but the running lights aren't getting any power. I checked (as best I know how) the main plug above the spare tire with a test light and the brown wire for that side has no power also...

Anybody know where to get these little check valves. I'd like to do this as well.