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Even though I ran the pump for 2 minutes to purge the air out of the lines? That's the method he suggests in the installation video on youtube. It worked for me the first time I put the kits on too...
Well the westfolk filter kits don't actually have air bleeders. What he says to do is run the fuel pump for 2 minutes which will push the air out of the system. I did that when i first put them on and it seemed to work.
Just now I tried opening the water drain on the secondary filter while...
I had some issues with hunting idle so I decided to check the in-tank pump/hose. Pulled the pump. Replaced the hose. Cleaned the screens. Reconnected all the fittings.
Drained old diesel and put in 20 gals of fresh.
Also had a leaky fitting on the IP after I installed the westfolk fuel filter...
I like por-15. Used it on a few things and if you apply it right you can't break the stuff off with a hammer. It's all in the prep though. If you don't follow directions to the letter it'll chip off.
That's my opinion too. Most of us own guns here and I think the a2 market is going to do what the MG market did after 86. Yes the pool of potential buyers is much smaller, but so is the supply.
The primary was pretty quick, but definitely not 20 mins. The secondary took a while. I had to take the heater out so it definitely wasn't a quick job like the oil kit. My truck also has metric bolts in several spots so that slowed me down some too.
I just don't get why a fitting would start...
I bought the kit from westfolk on ebay. The primary and the oil filter kits worked great, but after installing the secondary kit I developed a leak. The odd part is that it appears to be leaking from the elbow fitting not the new compression fittings that came with the kit. I circled the leak...
Thanks for all the good advice. I have an impact driver so I'll give that a try.
One more thing I'm curious about. Can one guy safely handle a deuce door? It doesn't look too heavy, but I just want to be sure.
My mirror brackets are bent and rusty so now that the truck is somewhat drivable I decided to remove them and see if I can straighten them out or replace them with emt conduit. Turns out that the door hinge bolts are completely rusted in place. I managed to break the nuts loose on the passenger...
Didn't know clogged filters could do that. I actually have spin on fuel filter kits ready to go on the truck. I guess I'll make that my priority for the weekend.
Sorry that part was me playing with the throttle a couple of times. The fluctuation I'm talking about was less than 100rpm seen in the rest of the video.
The temp gauge wire is severed at the sender. Something I haven't got around to fixing yet. The oil pressure gauge I believe is a 60psi...
So I finally wrapped up my clutch change adventure. Moved the truck around the yard a bit to see how the brakes and the new clutch are working. I noticed that the idle rpm is fluctuating a little bit. I'm including a link to the video of the truck running. Let me know what you think...
All the connectors look like they're on the edge of snapping off if I breathe on them the wrong way. The insulation is dried out. I figure instead of replacing the connectors 1 by 1 and dealing with electrical gremlins I can just get a new harness and not worry about it.
Thanks for the link...
I'm thinking about replacing my harness, but I'm not really excited by the prospect of paying $250 for a NOS harness that's been sitting on a shelf for 10-30 years. Feels like I'd be trading in one old harness for another that's slightly less worn out. Are there any other options out there?
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