Search results

The output terminal configurations can be found on page 107 of the manual. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=441744&d=1374383801

What is confusing me is you indicate running 120v household appliances in your first post but you show a 240v plug. That generator will not work for that setup. Can an you answer how you intend to connect the appliances to the generator?

The best thing to do is run it in 120v mode and power your selected items from extension cords. As stated earlier the generator doesn't make dual voltage 120/240v without modification so connecting it to your power panel is not practical.

What is the consensus for prices on the 802 and 803s? What would everyone consider reasonable (auction and street price).

I would suggest caution loading up the generator with a lot of 120v single phase loads. You can exceed the design for neutral current and possibly damage the generator. I've not seen inside one of these units so I can't say how they have constructed it with unbalanced loads in mind.

I think your magnet isn't strong enough. That will require and adjustment.

Yea, breakers respond to different magnitude overloads differently. In this application short high intensity events are handled magnetically and longer low level events are handled thermally. To meet the UL standard for long duration events a breaker must trip @135% rated current within 60...

I know this is getting a little OT but it may be useful info. It is true that a breaker will allow more current through for a short time. That time is pretty short. It takes about 1/60th of a second for the magnetic trip portion of the breaker to physically react so for that window of time you...

I've not tried one so I can't offer any first hand experience.

I have one with a bad alternator. Finding that at an affordable price isn't going to happen. I can only hope that I can find a company to rewind it.

Thats not the worst news since the engine is one of the lower cost items to deal with. If the block isn't damaged these engines are pretty simple and inexpensive to rebuild.

I'm going to see if a local electrical motor rebuilder is willing to rebuild the alternator coils. I have a bad one myself.

Based on my playing around with them, that is a bad sign.

Here is a riddle.. When is 6ga not really 6ga.. Answer - When you bundle 4 of them tightly together and wrap them in a neoprene jacket. ;) Just to clarify a bit here, 6ga THHN (90 deg C) for example can handle a good bit more than 50a however 6ga cord is not rated for that temperature rise...

Lengthen the rod between the actuator and the engine and see if that helps. Make it about 1/2" longer and try it again.

If the gap is zero with the engine running the vertical rod between the actuator arm and the engine governor needs to be lengthened. To get to a decent starting position adjust the length of the rod with the engine off until the gap between the magnet and the target is about an inch.

You mean in the shutdown position?

I also found that the 831 won't run smoothly if overfilled. I now fill it just till the oil level touches the bottom of the threads. That is about 2/3s up the dipstick.

Could be a clue there. ;)

The low fuel alarm is from a switch secondary to the sending unit. As Dewie points out the first thing is to check K12 and see if its lit up. If it is you'll need to find the source of alarm. Even with K12 pulled in I had AC voltage reading at the gauge. It wouldn't pull in the output relay...