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The fact that you had pedal after bleeding then all the sudden it dropped to the floor and you could hear fluid pushing, leads me to lean towards the master bypassing on an inner seal failure. I wish there was a cheaper solution than install a "known good" master and bleed at air pack to see if...

If it's not leaking, you're not driving it enough rofl

Back to your original question on checking prices after close, another easy way to check without having to write numbers down and do a bunch of searching is simply email the link of anything you are interested in to yourself. After the auction closes the link stays active and you can click...

"Running condition unknown, GL will not provide load out assistance...."

Click here: Starter Motor For CUCV M1008 etc, 1113591 / 1998454 Erik's, new, made in USA.

Try the search function.... :deadhorse: this subject has several threads you will find helpful. I just renewed my policy with Gulfway for $120 per year.

I know he said the front drive is disengaged but unless he has lockout hubs the front axle shafts and u-joints inside the knucke are still spinning to the differential. Could be a failing u-joint inside the knuckle behind the spindle, but before that I would check the knig pins, and steering...

Big differences in the two, including price. Not as many A3 built, under 6,000 total if I recall right. Like power steering and automatic transmission, or shifting the gears with armstrong steering? If money is no object own both! There seems to be quite a bit fewer A2 trucks coming out of GL...

The holes in my truck behind the driver's seat had steel plugs with an expanding clip to hold them in place, seen the same plugs at the hardware/farm store in the nuts and bolts section. Mine were CARC painted in place from last overhaul. Knocked them out to install the convoy light. The flap...

:funny: Please don't delete first post....It asks all the things I've wanted to know but been too scared to ask. :shock:

I've been running two NAPA standard post batteries for two years now with zero problems, same as any vehicle....clean, tight connections at all locations. :driver:

It's a bunch easier if you have it on a jack stand and pull the wheel off. Then you just slide up to it sitting on a creeper and give the drum/hub a hug as you work the boot on. I opted for the no-wife help and found my knees could hold the bottom sides of the boot while I worked the top in and...

Thanks for the diagram, didn't even know I had one. :shock: I guess when I'm retired, kids out of the house, wife off my butt, sick family dead, broken cars fixed, house repaired, and raining outside I will be able to devote all my spare time to memorization of the TM's ;-)

nopics

Wow, nice first purchase! Were these in the batch of sealed bid trucks that have started showing up there? Too bad you started off small... rofl

I don't care what anyone says...that's a cool sounding turbo!

Sorry to revive an old post but I did mine the other day and had a couple of things to add for any future search on the subject. Gasket was OEM and got it from Erik's, $4 plus shipping. It was very helpful to remove the three bolts on the upper radiator support bracket, and remove the bracket...

When they are folded down it works as a grab handle to help pull up from the tailgate step, natural grab location. My old wood seats did not have the cutouts but my new fiberglass ones off an A3 had them.

Very nice write up, good luck with the boot!

TM 9-2910-226-34 states code C and D pumps do not have a droop screw, depending on your rebuild...if you have one...clockwise decreases fuel flow, counter clockwise increases it. The fuel rod on the other side, turn adjusting nuts clockwise to increase flow.