Search results

The Actuator is as forward as it goes now and i have been driving for 30 minutes and nothing, still warm air from the front vents. I have to say thoug that after 30 min it chills somewhat, definitely more than it does for the first 20 min but that is something that consistently happened even...

So based on this new picture/names: Shouldn't I just disconnect the Servo from the Valve Actuator, push the Valve Actuator forward and leave it like that....? If I reconnect the servo isn't that going to push/pull the Valve Actuator...? and if it does not, what is the purpose of re-hooking the...

But if I hook up the servo again, isn't that going to drag the "C" forward and backwards just like it should...?

or even easier: I unhook the servo from the "C" looking hook, push it forward which I believe is the shut off (no flow) position and leave it there. Would that eliminate the heater altogether...? (I don't really need the heater in S. Florida)

I am having the same problem (Hot air in the A/C vent) and my question is: If you just unhook the servo from the "C" looking hook and push it forward and DO NOT hook the servo back, doesn't that close any flow of hot water into the heater and therefore into the A/C duct forever....? (Or at least...

what if I cut the tube in a more convenient place, install the valve in series and shut it off for ever, does that approach have any drawbacks....? (It is easier and faster for me)

Is this the valve I need to replace to avoid hot air coming into my A/C and would I replace it with this....?

sorry.... my bad

Before purchasing a tachometer, (which by the way if anyone has one for sale with canon connector let me know) I would like to know if the harness is good so a "Plug n Play" situation would occur. In the picture is the connector hanging by the windshield wiper motor and two of the wires (27P and...

so.... what do I do about that....? and most of all HOW do I go about it...?

Strange behavior here on this 2007 M1151 these are the vents: DL=Driver's Left. DR=Driver's Right. PL=Passenger's Left. PR=Passenger's Right. RU=Rear unit. In the morning, cold engine, cold air comes out of ALL vents. As the engine warms up, not so cold (kind of room temperature) air comes...

so sorry about the very poor camera moves, next time I'll do better (looking at the clip now I totally see what you meant)

Mog you are correct, that seems to be the problem, with sunlight I turned on the engine (AC off) and started to measure the temp of the AC clutch, it reached about 300F and I knew that was not a normal operating temp, I shut down the engine and after a min or so, smoke started coming out. that...

so the only way to check all the pulleys out, including the compressor one, would be to remove the belt and spin each one by hand...? would or should all of them turn freely...?

Mog..... wouldn't the A/C compressor smoke only if engaged...?

allora..... A/C has not worked in a while so it was off, the starter works fine, I'll look at the harnesses from underneath.

:oops: Last night I was riding back home and about 5 miles from destination I started to smell something burnt, but having a old beat up truck in front of me I believed (of course) it has to be this guy. By the tame I got home I realized.... ohh... ohhh... the truck is gone and the smell is...

I just stumbled on this thread and I am very eager to understand the step by step process of bleeding air in power steering/brakes. Engine on or off...? Does the reservoir cap need to be off or on....? Someone told me steer 50 times hard left and 50 times hard right, is that right....? Is the...

Minskey, I could not find the post of the other issue you had, can you link it here...?

Ok so someone told me that the switch by the brake pedal could be bad (or not properly calibrated) and that forces the Converter to lock up, but my stop lights work correctly and my understanding is that the switch by the pedal controls simultaneously the Control Module and the brake lights. Am...