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it was a defective Gas pump, the shaft/pin that makes the pump work was broken. Replaced it with a electric pump from the auto parts store, runs just fine.

I didn't know about this switch but definitely worth taking a look at it because it would make sense that if that switch has an intermittent contact, it would provoke that reaction. Can you tell me more specifically where that switch is located....?

Hey Thunderbirds thanks a lot for the picture, it really helps A LOT to identify components in the engine compartment especially when you are not familiar with the name and location of engine components. I'll definitely be checking on that as soon as I get back to my Humvee. Thanks again

I visually inspected the engine compartment and the pedals area but did not see anything out of the ordinary

Very good question Mogman but the answer is "No", I have carefully examined the "conditions" in which this problem happens and there is no consistency... no "precursor", engine temp (cold or hot) is not a factor, slope (going up hill or down hill) is not a factor (Florida is so damn flat) speed...

Nothing moving.... (no strange sound.... no mechanical force change at the pedal... no clues)

hehehe... no... the only animal present is behind the steering wheel :giggle:

The problem is that going at a steady speed, say…. 30 mph without changing the pressure applied on the gas pedal, all of a sudden the truck (1151) behaves like if I floored the pedal, it even downshifts on it’s own and takes off, and if I keep the same pressure on the pedal, it reaches about 50...

There are certain tests as well as techniques such as BTM ( Brake Throttle Modulation) that require you to rev your engine at a specific amount of revolutions per minute, that is when an RPM gauge comes in handy.

well... as it turns out my starter was defective, I replaced it and now it starts without hesitation, it's been more than a week. My volt meter inside the car reads 24.9V while waiting for the glow plugs and 28.5V while traveling at 40-50 mph (sometimes 28.2-28.3V)

MgFray, thanks for getting back, I was actually thinking that if a "canon" tach would work, it'd probably be the easiest quickest solution because the installation would require some sort of a metal bracket and screwing the canon's locking ring in place and that's it, vs. having to connect 5...

do you think I could get away with a pair of these...? Weize Platinum AGM Battery BCI Group 24F Automotive Battery, 120RC, 710CCA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6Y7KQYN/?coliid=I231CJ3AXX8AR4&colid=3JOTHV3BC5LRP&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

I see quite a few people here have switched to LiFePO4 are there advantages (or disadvantages), should I look into that if my batteries turn out to be bad...?

Then it should really be no problem also considering I do not have the hold down top brackets

Greg, it says that the size is 10.5 X 11.25, while the OEM is 10.5 X 10.0 about 9 and a qtr high, the 11.25 is the size that concerns me.... what do you say...

Is this the battery you are referring to...? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fleet-heavy-duty/battery-accessories/batteries---commercial/f78a23ef17b7/super-start-fleet-heavy-duty-battery-group-size-6tl/ssbl/6tl

Thanks for the tip, the lucky part here is that being in S. Florida I hardly ever have to start below 60 degrees (I know.... I am so lucky)

I did as I said in post #1 they read 12.87V and the other one 12.75 so about a .1V difference

Got it, in any case the box I used has a "Mode" specifically designed to start a 24V vehicle w/o batteries at all. If this batteries fail the load test do you have any recommendations for new batteries that are not astronomically expensive....? My consideration is that the OEM batteries need to...

this is my situation by the area where you'd normally see a tachometer and I would like to install one but don't know if the canon connector dangling in the picture is what I need since most of the pictures for tachometer I have seen on eBay have 5 wires or so, can anyone chime in...?