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probably easier to put another 6.2 back in, if affordable one is found. Lots more work to put a small block in but could be worth it if your into it, just have to figure out what to do with all the extra unused wires...2cents

that play seems excessive, maybe dirty fluid wore down the bearings/races at the ends of the tubes, i'd put new bearings/races in it. Because it's a c-clip axle it's not really that unsafe2cents

all of the trucks I have seen with 4.56s that you mention were 25's, before they changed to 2500 on the trim package, I have seen 20's with 3.07s, 3.73, and 4.10s....I still cant figure out why they would put 3.07s in a 3/4 ton pickup. They made a ton of those camper special trucks but thier...

it's a pretty easy job if you pull the drivers tire and use a jack stand under the axle, the upper rear most bolt was the easiest bolt for me to get started when hanging the new box alone:grin:

:-Pi'll say 99%

I ran six lug with 3.07s/35s/6 inch lift for 2 years without a problem. TH350/203/corp 10/corp 12. I didn't have the transfercase yoke issue to worry about like the 208, but everything is the similiar otherwise. 6/8 lug front ends are the SAME strength/corp/dana44. the truck had a cooler on it...

lol:-p

They were just plain ol' 1008's. Just another person trying to make a buck off of running gear...:cookoo:

get a dodge 205 and run a divorced case, a good idea if the truck has a lot of lift.

oh ya, I didn't lead on much that I know a thing or two about the 1008's, I knew he was full of it when he told me that in addition to the detroit in the rear it had a FACTORY/MILITARY locker in the front.:shock:

I went to spokane yesterday (30 miles) to see if this guy running a small parts shop/junkyard had some hub housings for a D60. Weaving my way thru the cars to get to the front door I notice a 1008. He says he just got back from seattle area the week prior with 2 of them and they were for sale...

wow, sounds like some of you need to take a trip this direction. two weeks ago there was a truck with the nv, and a month before that there was 2. I just looked online at the prices to be sure....55 for tranny, 13 for clutch, 10 for transfer adapter, and 60 for transfer case. If you leave it all...

around here thier 10.00 each up to 12" w/ tall nuts and washers. I only reuse u-bolts that I have purchased....not anything stock that's 15-30 years old. A local bolt company probably has a supply of them too, but they will be more like 18.00 each, in Idaho anyways.:p

the front already tracks wider on chevy trucks, you might measure front and rear and buy spacers to achieve equal wheel base width front and rear, would look better anyway.2cents

is the baseball diamond thing the cover plate below where it says stanadyne in jags post...(2 bolts hold it on)? How do you know if someone else has turned it up, is there some noticable quality of the engine that is bad, without knowing EGT's.... and should I aquire a gasket for this for...

take your oldest screwdriver and bend the end so you can get under it with leverage, it's usually a pain to get it to slide up because of the oil/limited space.

you just use some thick grease to hold the fuel pump rod in/up. As for re-timing the engine for the IP, you need to know if your looking for TDC on #1 like a gas motor, pull the valve cover exposing the rockers and watch fot the right stroke to come around, the timing mark on the dampner will...

real powder snow is the way to go, I wonder if it'll groom up to be alright for the ski/snowboarders ......@%*% elnino'.....I dont know why that is highlighted???:cookoo:

your gettin' all my snow! Snow wheelin' is great, non this year though:(

you da man!:-P