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I'll have to go out and measure, the CJ bar is supposed to be 19" long. Not sure of the distance between the holes in the dash. I guess I could put the uppers to the rifle mounts, any idea how much they cost and are they hard to find? (I admit I have not searched for them yet)

Has anyone used the CJ dash bar?

I found out that my replacement engine is much quieter (yet same turbo) as the one I took out... The new one is a D turbo, and I am sure the one I took off is a D also, but had a lot of "sound" to it.

Drove it around the block a few times... :D

It's a Tooele Depot rebuild...

Well, the engine that had been preserved in a crate since 1992, fired up in less than a minute, about the third short push on the red button. She came up to about 1100 rpm and stayed there.... good, solid, very little smoke. Oil pressure popped to 30 and stayed there. I ran it a few minutes...

I've already had to put the ball and spring back together in the clevis... that was fun. I'll sure try not to let that happen again. I do not have an inspection cover, didn't have one since I've owned it, but i'll find one. Thank you.

Sounds good. Thank you for your time and patience. It's difficult to get the questions out with the wrong terminology, but I was doing my best so someone "hopefully" could figure out what I'm asking.... Thanks again.

OK... if the rod needs to be lengthened, and if the clevis is already showing a couple of inches of threads, wouldn't that mean that the next move would be to rotate the connecting rod (terminology) on the shaft? and the proper direction to rotate the rod, by ONE spline, on the shaft (for...

SO.... tell me if this sounds right. If I can see a couple inches of threads to the rear of the jam nut.... (on my linkage) and my current condition is that I have TOO MUCH pedal, (clutch fully engaged very close to floor). if I lengthen the linkage, I get clutch to engage with less pedal...

On a good note.... for not running in 22 years, it started in less than a minute and purrs like a big @$$ kitten...!!!

This is the clutch that was packaged in 7/92 in the crate with the depot rebuilt engine.... the "pads" actually look like copper. It appeared to be very close thickness to the one I took out.

and the spring located inside the frame of the box connection (on the linkage) to the pump. (sorry if terminology is incorrect)

Yes, I have the return spring from steering box to linkage.

All my linkage appears to be in order, but I can put my hand on the throttle bar (linkage) and push towards the front and it idles down, I've tried to adjust the linkage to the front, but am not sure I am doing it properly. I have held the 7/16 nut and turned the idle set screw both ways with no...

wouldn't work, looks like mine is a linkage problem.... causing HIGH idle.

Actually, i'm at the other end... she's traveled about 3 feet. New clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearings.... (and newly rebuilt engine) What I am wondering is, do I need to take off the linkage end, and shorten the linkage, or do I need to take the linkage arm "off" and rotate it, a notch...

I guess i'm barely getting enough pedal... It goes to the floor and will engage about 3 inches off the floor.... From under the truck, it looked like I needed to screw OUT the linkage to get more pedal action, but i'm already seeing a LOT of threads o the shaft.

The guy at NAPA had to scratch his head and think it over a little this morning... I told him to just cut off the ends (of my leaking fuel line) and crimp a new hose between them..... Took him about 7 minutes and he charged me $7... I'll wait a little bit, till the neighborhood looks more...

Nope. just the deuce, bone stock... but I have seen roll backs think they can go anywhere... and sink in the sand and have to be pulled back to the road. I'm putting my new fuel line on my deuce and this "should" be the LAST thing before starting up the new motor...!!!