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He may have. Couldn't remember. 3k is still pretty steep. I know he wanted you to send your heads in. Was he doing an exchange or was he doing the work to your heads? I wonder if he was doing anything more than port and polishing the heads?

While your at it add a pinion brake for a rock crawler and dump those stupid drum brakes. They are waaay too complicated. That little mazda brake disk should be perfect for the deuce. At least that's what the crawler guys tell me. Should stop on a dime and you get to brag that you have...

This doesn't make any sense. It's a multifuel. It should run on ANYTHING!!!

Slow night?

If you google 7" h4 headlight you will find everything from a basic housing to ones with l.e.d accents and halo lights. There's some pretty neat ones out there if you search hard enough. They can also get a bit pricey depending on how many bells and whistles you get with them.

Did it slide out easily? What matters with removing the HH is lining the red tooth up with the pointer cast into the housing. Putting the engine to tdc on #1 has nothing to do with removing the HH.

Are you talking about that sliver of sheet metal on the top side of the drive gear? Cause if you are that is supposed to be there. That disk of metal has a crescent cut out that when timed correctly (as you do) allows you to remove the HH.

Minute amounts of water? Tho my weather strips have seen better days. I might as well open my windsheilds on a rainy day. I must say though, a3 wipers are a very nice upgrade.

Diesel fuel lubricates the rod on one side and engine oil lubricates the rod on the other.

Well it does subscribe him to the thread. Though typing anything subscribes you if you have that in the settings.

Have you pulled an injector to see how it fires? Especially on one of the cylinders that didn't seem to affect running when you cracked a line open. 3 of my injector lines are leaking (replacements inbound) and at near full throttle I can hear a tick in the exhaust where those cylinders...

Actually after doing my 395 conversion I have had almost none of the problems many people complain of. Return to center is normal and after playing with tire pressures it drives as good if not better than it used to. I blame most of the wandering on the gaping pot holes that litter Louisiana...

Ya the thread in the classifieds involved trading in your heads for "improved" heads and a few other parts. If I remember correctly wasn't he asking 3k or more for the parts? He claimed 300+ HP. Thats a lot of cash for no proof of benefit.

Are you referring to the thread rebelcummins posted? He never got to building the new intake manifold. He did build a different intake leading up to the manifold. But for the most part he just turned the fuel up. There were a few other things he claimed he did but he hasn't posted on his...

You may not be able to over grease a u-joint but you can most definitely over grease an enclosed bearing. Off topic a bit I know.

Thanks for posting that.

Every 2-3 years for me. Theoretically the additive packages in engine oil break down with age and not just usage.

I keep the valve on my service glad hand closed along with the cover on the glad hand. Something is sticking in the air control valve of your air pack. When you release the brake pedal all air pressure should be vented from the air pack.

My injectors seem fine. Its the fuel lines to them that are leaking in my case. Specifically the flare nuts on top of the HH. As far as I'm aware all multifuels have the booster pump on the IP. The in tank pump feeds the booster pump. The booster pump builds about 80 psi before sending...

Is the 6bt cummins longer or shorter than a MF? If it is shorter maybe you could find an allison out of a one ton GM truck and have it beefed up. If I ever build a bobber its either getting the 6bt or a duramax. I don't hate the multi-fuel, however, it is lacking in every single aspect.