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I bet its heating the block to the "Naughty temp". There is a VERY narrow range where the glow plugs will not come on and the engine is Just a tad too cold to start on its own. I have had this happen to two of my CUCV's. Not all the time but like I said there is a narrow window. You can try to...

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could be the housing has a crack or grove..

That is not going to make 5th gear act like that..... sounds like a internal Transmission problem.

:ditto:You don't want that Junk sliding around and getting in the way of the brakes ect.. and if the trucks stops really fast.. or rolls.. its going to beat the tar out of you.:ditto:

yes you should hear a hiss..... and they should feel like a car or truck.. little more power to push but not a two footer. The pedal should have 3/4 inch of free play before the brakes start to grab. If you have not lubed your air pack.. (I know you have not done) time to do so. On the back of...

I have tried that a couple of time too and some have worked some not... when a water pump "goes out" 99% of the time the seal has worn a grove in the shaft and there she goes.. with out a speedie sleeve its just going to leak again.

Get a new water pump.. you know you can order one from Napa.. carquest.. ect... I never rebuild the pumps just for that reason. WATER PUMP: 58-244 reman water pump from( A1 cardone) http://www.amazon.com/A1-Cardone-58-244-Remanufactured-Water/dp/B000HSRUGM

more then the little GA rally

List: Search for '50w' | O'Reilly Auto Parts can get it here... $4.50

Yes my 5 ton has Lockers in the rear. There was a Air Locked rear axle for a deuce that was out there.. I think Kenny posted on it. It is rare as hens teeth. here is my two cents.... a bobed MV (deuce or 5 ton) with no locker is like a monkey making love to a foot ball. Funny to watch but not...

I have seen that on soft tops and had it missing on others. You may be correct Ks. (a hard top will NOT bolt down with that plate in place)

man ..... WTF.... take it ez.. they were just trying to figure out why you want to be able to unlock the rear of a open diff 4x4 not call out your man hood.

you need to take it to a shop that has the induction style tester (the probe clips around the main power wire to the starter) Just hit up the local auto shops and ask if they can test how many amps the starter draws.

I see now that it has been posted that I am having them made and yes making $4.37 a set (the cost of 1.2 gallons of fuel for my driving to the shop and PO) there is a problem. This post has been up for weeks and not a peep out of your group. I get it. Look if you don't want them don't buy...

Have you taken it to have the started tested? see how many AMPS it is drawing? If its over 175 time to have it replaced. Also with a Manual GP switch the glow plugs will never function like a good working control card. Your guessing on how long to hold down the switch is a shot in the dark really.

well with shipping I am still cheaper for the stock lines.. and there 100 times better then the NOS or "factory" lines. The Heavy duty lines are way over kill but thats what its all about. So.... If you want to spend more on the same junk that is in there go for it Mr. Hnrsonj.

The military only used 80/90 because they did not want to get it all mixed up.. we know how that works in the military. Spicer states to use a 30-50W in the TRANS not the t case.... you might want to double check that on the t case before you add 50W. M35 Tom I think is using 40W in his OD...

if you bent the ears of the axle.. its done. Even if you think you get them back in the correct place... time to take it to the local auto shop and have them fix it.

The oil lines are in..... I have the Heavy duty ones (rated for over 3000 PSI) that are ready to ship right now at $45.00 with shipping (see picture) and a "stock" line rated for 300 PSI $35.00 with shipping will be ready in two weeks. The Difference in the two, is the heavy duty lines have a...