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Thanks guys, that's what I kinda thought.

Okay I can forsee where this is going to go....:) Hey you dumbass no it wouldn't be good..... Curious though, anybody try fix a flat for a slow big wheel oring leak? Figured it might be worth a shot before i pull the wheel apart, it's a very slow leak( about a day or two before it goes flat.)

I bought my first MV a M35A3 a couple months ago. I'm dying to drive it again. Shortly after I got it home bouncing around in my gopher infested yard I broke a dogbone and crushed the brake line. I'm on the end side of replacing them all(the rubber all looked pretty bad so I figured might as...

Thanks Pete and RL, just needed to vent a little. I have my plates on the truck, just want to drive the beast! I don't get a lot of time off, didn't have the tools I need, so it's been a slow process, replacing the dogbones, now figured I might as well adjust the brakes on the axle I have the...

Hi Jay, sorry for the delay, was out of town. 386-24

I meant the other side of the axle was no problem. This side of the axle one of the nuts and adjuster just spins together freely, won't tighten even, the other nut I took completely off and can't get the adjuster to move. Something has got to be wrong inside, the pads aren't against the hub...

Of course both the locknut and the adjuster are locked together on all these with rust or whatever, but I managed on one side to break them lose and got one side done to my satisfaction, the other side I cannot break the adjuster lose from the locknut and the whole thing spins forever. Is there...

Very strange, why would they suddenly drop the torque value by 200 ftlbs? Got me wondering what the right torque is now. The manual Michael cited supercedes the previous I assume? BTW If anyone needs crow foot wrenches to torque the upper axle torque rod nuts and the ubolt nuts, Oreilly auto...

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2320-209-20-3-2.PDF Considering the torque it took to remove mine(needed a cheater bar in addition to the breaker bar to remove), I know they weren't 200 ftlbs! Very strange. One manual has them 200 ftlbs more. Maybe mine are overtorqued...

SWEET! Glad everything went well.

. I had to take the leaf spring top off. Took a suggestion, use a small sledge held against the end/nut even with the end and smack the smaller sledge with a 10 or 12 lb sledge, they pop right out. Torque for all the rod nuts is350-400 ftlbs

Excellent Jay. Glad to hear no major problems! I only had a 70 mile trip, had the kitchen sink and all I needed was 1 gallon of antifreeze. Better prepared than not.

Certainly welcome, but I really can't take much credit, it's more of a compilation mostly of what others have suggested in the forum.

How did you determine which wheel cylinders were bad? I see no leaks externally. Do I need to pull all of the hubs?

All these places are on drugs. I need two sizes 1 1/16 and 1 1/2, not going to pay hundreds of dollars for a couple little tools I'll use once. ERRRRRR

I don't weld, so it has to be tool available to the public.

What hole? Talking about the torque rod ends on top of the axles.

Where do I get a crows foot adapter to torque the inner torque rod ends you cannot get a socket and wrench on?

Good luck Jaymcb, keep us posted.

I've got two leaking, the spare loses air quickly, the other takes a couple days to go flat. I ordered and recieved a couple new o rings, just waiting for the impact wrench I ordered to start on that. If it's a slow leaker and you have the gladhand hose and inflater I wouldn't sweat it much.