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The coolant flowing through the coil in the fuel tank took the place of the hot water personell heater system in my current system. I rarily used the heater anyway, but valves can be added to select either for maximum flow. The coolant filter is also in a parallel circuit.
Okay, I think I see what you are doing, Ken, according to the manual, the screw hidden by the acorn nut is for calibrating the FDC itself, but it will also adjust the fuel delivery.
It is used to set the movement of the stop block for the different fuels.
However, once the FDC is calibrated...
The very first thing you need to do, IMHO, is to free up the rear tandem axles. They are coupled together in a fixed manner (no interaxle diff) and will fight you every inch of the way on firm ground/pavement.
With the tandems freed up, your turning circle will be reduced dramatically and you...
Here is a better picture.
See the nuts/adjustment at the very base? Losen the outside nut and turn the inner nut, it will move the screw in or out, adjusting the extent of movement of the stop block inside.
Lee, you have to look at the base of the FDC, you are messing with the calibration of the FDC itself if you adjust the settings on the top part.
The adjustment screw looks like this (adjustment viewed from the bottom of the removed FDC unit) and it looks like it's still safety wired in the lower...
Still tying up some loose ends before the trip...will probably take a few more days.
Here I'm mixing fuel, 25% home brewed biodiesel and 75% filtered WVO.
The new starter revs faster than the old one ever did and the engine never started this easy, it's almost tripping over itself starting....still with the aging batteries... :-)
This subject keeps popping up and since I have been monitoring the temp pretty carefully (with additional thermocouple probe) over the years, I must say that the radiator cover has a place at ANY ambient temperature, depending on how the truck is used.
During my trip to Georgia and Florida a...
Lee, my pump is not turned up and I usually see 6-7 psi accelerating down a level highway. Loaded down, 11-12 psi is not uncommon when hitting a hill and trying to maintain speed and I back off before the EGT shows 1,200.
Interestingly, with 100% biodiesel and veggie oil in the tank, the boost...
RE: it was quik...
After taking the solenoid apart, I replaced the one burnt contact, which I removed from another starter/solenoid. The plunger with the snapped-off disc didn't fit so I put it all back together and used the other starter after all.
The disc and the contacts are easily...
I measured it once, I think it's only 1/2 the engine rpm when the winch shift lever is in "high".
Still got the rpm meter, will check again later today.
Got the deuce going again.
The aging battery situation had nothing to do with the starter solenoid falure. Just by coincidence did they seem to relate.
The contact plate in the solenoid on the starter had broken off and made constant contact,which caused the starter to run continously.
It could...
This may give something to go on:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?set_albumName=album33&id=ps192_p38_39_Bridge_Plates&name=gallery&include=view_photo.php
Hint: Go to PS Magazine section and do a search for "bridge".
RE: interesting...
My thinking for sure...should have replaced them before last trip, they were getting old.
Checking the specific gravity of each cell is probably the best way to know when it's time to replace the batteries before it's too late, but how often does one do that?
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