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Sounds to me like a couple possibilities, both pertaining to the governor and injection pump itself. Start by pushing the fuel shut off solenoid up and out of your way. Does the linkage arm move freely at the Injection Pump? If there is any sticking or binding at all, that is going to cause you...

Hey Jimmy, I do them. I can pop test, adjust, clean or replace nozzles, whatever you need, shoot me a PM and let me know what you want done. Ray.

Doesn't look like anyone answered your question about recoat time, but YES for best adhesion you should topcoat within the 1 week window on the epoxy primer. If you wait longer you will loose some adhesion between primer and top coat, unless you scuff the primer first. Personally I recoat epoxy...

Out of curiosity are you thinking of using this unit as the worlds coolest 28V jump starter, or using the turbine for another project? The project's " Cool" factor is unlimited!

Unbelievable! 4.9 GL/SF/Hr. of rain, that must have been one hell of a scary sight to see. Something like 8"/hour? If we get a 1" / hour storm it's considered heavy rain. 2" is a torrential down pour. 3" is more than we saw during the 100 yr. flood in 2008. 8" / hour??, I can't even imagine...

You're right that parts are sometimes hard to come by but careful research will turn up that there are still a few places where you can get the parts you listed at reasonable prices. For example, I recently needed a #14 timing button... couple places wanted over $100 each, but further digging...

One "Negative" thing I can say about many of the marine gages is that they are quite often set up for 12V operation and require a separate resistor board to allow them to be used in our 24V applications. The boards are not too expensive, maybe $12 or so, but they are about 1/2" wide and 1 1/2"...

I was once considering just welding a triangular ball coupler to the underside of the trailer frame ( sides seem to be a similar angle. Could also add some 4 or 5" C-channel as a spacer to drop the ball even further. This is of course only if you wanted to switch from lunette to a ball...

I can also confirm the kit has the cover gasket, and a bunch of extra stuff you don't need! Depending on what you are doing with your pump, I would also suggest getting the 1 piece governor weight basket ( if you are doing a full pump rebuild ) This eliminates the flex coupler all together...

Ditto.... 803 is easier on your wallet as well.... Still very quiet, easier to repair, proven track record.... and tons of support HERE! 1040... newer, harder to fix, less knowledge due to being fairly new to this forum, higher cost.... AND that troublesome digital control panel which is very...

Correct... Guy, That motor uses a metal gasket, not composite construction. No need for any additional sealers etc. Not that it is standard practice, but in a pinch I have reused the gaskets on those single cyl. Yanmar's several times with perfect success.... for emergency situations.

A bit late now if you already wiped it down with Penetrol, but the best thing I have found ( that lasts ) for renewing faded paint is to simply spray the machine with satin / matt / semi-gloss , whatever you want... Rattle can clear coat. I don't suggest gloss because it looks too shiny and...

Any universal diesel rated fuel pump with like 6-14 PSI will work fine. Don't need a real lot of flow since burn rate is very low, but typical pumps would be about 35 gph at freeflow. For reference I have used airtex E8135 many times with perfect results.

Although your fuel pump is clicking away, your description is a classic sign of a failing fuel pump. Just because they make noise doesn't mean they are good. It just happened to me ( again ) recently. Machine was running great one day, next day my buyer arrived and the machine would bog at...

I believe the shims come in different thicknesses as well. Black is in the .005" range and the green ones are only like .002" maybe less? I've typically seen 1 to 3 shims under the dozens of pumps I've removed. I have also put together a dozen or more motors without knowing what shims came out...

I should probably check the schematic before making this statement BUT.... I don't recall the fuel solenoid having anything to do with the starter circuit. The speed switch under the oval shaped cover near the oil filter is the mail culprit if you don't get power to your starter solenoid. It's...

If you decide to go that route, try checking on line or NAPA and see what you can find that is 24V and will seal with the same bevel and copper washer as the original. Be careful with HMMWV glow plugs. There are tons of aftermarket ones floating around that claim to be 24V but are actually 12V...

Yup, it's a hollow brass float. They occasionally get tiny hairline cracks in them and eventually sink. You will have a hard time seeing the crack, but if you clean it with brake cleaner then blow it dry it will be very dull looking. as soon as you tip it around a bit the diesel inside will...

I would say, just to be on the safe side... If you decide to run a bit with the battle short on at lease rig up a mechanical oil pressure gage so you can be sure what you have for pressure. Definitely would suck to come this far that cause a problem while troubleshooting!

Interesting... a little while ago I bought a used 4 cyl. motor ( I wanted the IP ) Out of curiosity I tore it down to see why the motor failed. The oil pump shaft was also sheared off, but the crank gear was also split in half right where the threaded gear puller holes are. I assumed the crank...