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could you get me the part #, I figure three per rim will locate them the best. I will call the local hummer dealer and see if anyone in the parts dept. has a clue.

RE: 12 vs 24? you would need a different controller, the stock one will fry if connected to 24volts (Just ask a few of us how we found that one out.) you could use the relay from the m998 and then get a button switch that is rated for the 24v. if you leave the rest of the stock controller...

update: I checked the -20 TM and it does not mention anything about an alignment washer on the studs. I dont see how the two halves will center themselves though, unless the beadlock insert does that? Guess I'll find out when I get the inserts, should be the first part of next week.

Where can I find the "alignment washers" that go on three of the studs to align the upper half of the rim to the lower half?

HUC= floor assisant for the nurses.

sent ya a PM, will happily do whatever is needed, the afternoon shift at the hospital gives me lots of free time. (If I could just train the HUC's to remember their passwords I'd be set)

As I recall, they made an electric pump for the 6.2/6.5 motors. I think it started in 93 or 94. Its an inline pump, all you need to do is cut the line and splice it in.(and bypass the mech. pump.) shouldn't be that expensive, I'd guess around $60 or so.

should be able to. call a local rebuild shop to be sure. they are usually very helpful with questions, it gets them your business when you need something done.

You lucky dog!!!! I would have bought that if you didn't.

A full rebuild of the starter is only around $125, and you'll be amazed at the difference in starting. I can't believe the difference in mine, realised that the starter was already going bad when I got the truck.

that is the older body style. I think that most of the drivetrain would be different. The price doesm't seem that bad, especially considering that it comes with a plow, although you will want to check the transmission out to be sure it isn't ready to die (check for burnt fluid and then how it...

Unless you are dead set on having it remain stock from the military, just do what a bunch of us have done and change over to a manual GP setup. Then you just hold the button until the "wait" light goes out.

do you have any more contact info for this company?

I have the unit in a box Whe I get hte chance I will happily dismantle it.

they replaced mine with the rebuild, included in the above price.

sometimes you could accidently put too much foam in, if it doesn't have a place to go then it will try to find a place to go( read: It can push stuff that you don't want it to push.) for a crack in conrete I would get a tube of the crack filler, its designed for it and will "give" with the...

be sure to get the spacer for the long bolt that goes into the head, its the lower bolt on the alt. Mine didn't have one and it didn't figure it out until I had snapped two lower brackets.

I have the pics of the install and now that its done. hope to post them in the morning, the work computer is running Win2K and doesn't recognise the camera.

I un-bolted it and noticed that there is absolutely no resistance when cycling the arm, shouldn't there be some assuming the inside guts are still working???? I plan on doing rear disc brakes very soon and will be installing an adjustable prop. valve in the rear. I will be loading the truck...

If you have an old one you should be able to take it to any decent starter/alternator shop. I had mine completely rebuilt for $125US (that included getting a new nose cone, because mine was cracked.) If you don't have a core, I could send you my spare. (It needs to be rebuilt though.)