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I'll take one of each, please. You'll take a check, right?

You must have just missed me, I see my laundry trailer I just dropped off about 90 minutes ago! Lots of good trucks there, Daniel. Way to go!

BTW - got some detailed pics of the parts truck? Might be interested in some spare items.

So, what's the name of your Depot? Or do you consider yourself your own National Guard Unit now?

The military RTs are rated for 10 tons, 20K pounds. But I've heard the RTs are maintenance nightmares, I tried listing one a while back at I got a bunch of crosses and garlic thrown at me....

Picture 12: Last pic. Wipe off the excess RTV with a junk rag. If the RTV has oozed a little out of the seal the ENTIRE way around the seal after torqueing down the bolts, you did good. Hope you enjoyed. At least I get a free new socket out of this. :)

Picture 11: Tool strength has been tested, and failed. Here's why I buy Craftsman, I can return it free for another one.

Picture 10: The manual states between 80 and 110 psi torqueing down all the bolts, I don't own a torque wrench so I just lean into it. 245 lbs goes a long way to testing the limits of the hardware, and your tools.

Picture 9: With the bolt holes now lined up, put ALL the bolts back in just slightly, you will have to play with it a little bit in order for the axle shaft/seal to line up with the bolt holes, don't torque one down before seating the next bolt.

Picture 8: THEN, spin the opposite side tires in the clockwise direction. Since the deuce has open differentials, when you spin the wheels on one side clockwise, the opposite side tires will also spin clockwise, in the opposite direction (in other words, both wheels won't turn backwards, or...

Picture 7: SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM. Jack up the opposite side of the deuce axle.

Picture 6: Same pic, but I have drawn a clockwise arrow. Sliding the axle shaft back in, the bolt holes wouldn't line up. The deuce had shifted just a tiny bit, and caused the rear drivetrain to turn a couple degrees, so the axle splines wouldn't go in at the exact spot to line up with the...

Picture 5: Use a healthy dose of RTV around the outside of the hub flats, being sure to encircle the bolt holes for good measure.

Picture 4: This is the only remains of the original seal. About 120 degrees worth of the entire circle, the remaining 240 degrees was completely missing, leaving a big gap for all the 90W to leak out of.

Picture 3: All 8 bolts have been removed, and the axle shaft and outer seal just comes out.

Picture 2: Using a 1/2" socket wrench, start unbolting the 8 bolts holding the axle shaft/seal together. I had a tube of Permatex Ultra-Black Hi-Temp RTV Silicone on hand. The original seal was paper. I had no paper seal, but this stuff is great for making your own seal.

Since I've had this truck in March, the truck has developed a leak in the outer rear passenger side hub seal, which would belch axle lube out during operation, and leave an unsightly blob of 90W gear lube on the hub. Eventually, if not dealt with, all the 90W would leak out of the axle housing...

Wow, looks like you took a real truck and shrunk it. That hobby take patience and skill, both of which I am lacking. :) Nice!

That is a very good point, Kenny. While it always hurts me to see good trucks parted out, we still do a better job of saving these trucks than Uncle Sam does. Heck, if it wasn't for OUR interest in military vehicles, I guess Uncle wouldn't have many MV museums on their bases at all.

FANTASTIC! Another V-100 is getting saved! Even the range targets are getting saved, now. Not to hijack the thread, but I have a question - I have seen several guys purchase tanks and armor that has been used as range targets in the past. Where do they get these? I never see DRMO or GL...