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Richard, I don't have any good spares but my cousin runs an alternator/starter repair shop. He's fixed several for me pretty cheap and within a day or two. I have no idea what it would cost as it depends what all is wrong with it.

:ditto: I admit that I sometimes don't check it when I'm in a hurry but I do try and check it every time I drive my truck. I aways try and check my oil and brake fluid every time. Those are two items the deuce can't live without :wink:.

I've seen the signs say "all commercial vehicles must stop" and "all trucks must stop" depending on the state. I don't recall which states say what because any time I'm hauling I'm in a commercial truck so I have to stop regardless. If in doubt I'd stop anyway. There is no reason to worry about...

You need to look again :wink:. It's under that cover. Has a vent line running to it and a square head on top.

You are right Bjorn. Gerhard had a better idea of how to find it. I really helps when you are trying to find something if you somewhat remember the thread you are looking for. If you posted in the said thread (or remember somebody that did) you can narrow it down that way in the advanced search...

:ditto: Around here there was a time you could get $1,200-$1,500 for one front and one rear. With the economy the way it is and the closing of off road parks rockcrawling isn't what it used to be around here. That and the fact that there are a bunch of axles out there right now. I've had a set...

I've got some in TN. We're getting closer :-D. I'm asking $1,000.

He has authored several military vehicle books and is working on a book about the M35. He used to hang around here a pretty good bit but haven't seen him in a while. He seems to be real busy these days with books and being editor of Supply Line mag.

Back when I had several dozers I would send them off through the local Cat dealer. I'm pretty sure you can get the kits from NAPA also. If you want to really stay on top of things you would test at every scheduled oil change but I think that is unnecessary. Maybe every other oil change or...

I agree the pics of the "oak wood" doesn't look like any oak I've ever seen. It may be some type of oak that is in other parts of the country but it's not Tennessee oak. I tend to go with everyone else and say it's pine. I can get oak around here for about $.50 a board foot at local sawmills...

You could try a ease-out but if it's in there pretty tight it may not work. If you can perfectly center your drill bit it is possible to completely drill the bolt out and remove the threads with a pick. After I got it out I'd run a bottom tap down the hole to make sure the threads are ok so you...

We're just having a little "late night fun" :wink:. Please don't take offense to it.

I'd do something about that radiation leak before you start glowing :shock:. Sorry, I couldn't resist :-D.

Sounds like a good deal. Looks like it has a few issues but still a good deal for $1,800. Just make sure he has a title if you decide to buy it.

Good to hear you finally got the truck. I've been to Ft. Campbell many times and Jay and Jason have always went out of their way to help me.

This should give you plenty of reading on the subject :wink:. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/42672-select-vehicles-hold-gl-what.html

Maybe I have a different socket than you do but I've used a combo socket for years with good results. Fit both nuts fine and connect all the way. All the tire shops I've been to use the combo socket also.

I've got a 1" impact but if the themble spins on you before the outer nut comes off you're still screwed.

The MWO is for the seat belts, nothing more. You can't trust the miles or hrs. on a truck. It may have more, maybe less. I'd just look the truck over really good and if it checks out ok I'd buy it. Just go by the overall condition of the truck and not what the gauges say the miles and hrs are...

I was changing some tires on our KW today and thought I'd pass this along ( the KW has the same lugnuts as a deuce). When you put the lugnuts back on install the themble (inner nut) dry but put some anti-seize lubricant on the outer nut. This insures that the outer nut will come off without...