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Not really. On trucks built between '68 and '72 the year is the last two numbers of the registration number. If his truck is in fact a 1985 "85" will be the first two numbers of the registration number.
I'm taking the deuce camping in a few weeks. I figured since I'm going to be sleeping in the back I would like to have some sort of light back there. I found a couple of old threads where people have done this but want to hear some more ideas.
I'm familiar with shear pins used in a New Holland baler. They would be too hard.
Anybody considering using anything but the stock pins needs to take a look at the chart gringeltaube took the time to research. All of the steel pins he tested were above the safe limit.
PLEASE READ THR CHART...
With that chart and knowing accual torque values you can figure accual line pull. I don't have time at the moment but I'll set down this afternoon and figure it and post up.
I have never pulled one of these trailers but with the weights people are saying I'd rethink my tow vehicle. I wouldn't want anything less than a 1-ton for that kind of weight (with no trailer brakes) unless it was just a couple of miles.
That's what I was thinking :-D. Unless he's a class three dealer and has post samples. He would still have to have a PD offer to demo a MG42 but I have seen it done ;-).
You may could find a REO Eager Beaver (civilian model of the deuce). I think the fold out windows were optional on them but a solid windshield was standard.
Memphis equipment used to put non-openable windshields in some of their trucks. They were two windshields but sealed.
Like said above, all you need is a piece of sheet metal cut to the desired windshield shape and any glass place can cut some glass and install it. They can cut windshield glass...
I would say $2500-$3500 is a fair price. If the deuce was listed in the "blue book" I belive they would fall in that range. I've seen them priced as high as $6000 for an average truck but that dosen't mean they are accually selling for that.
I didn't go by the TM but I've been told by members on here and by my experience the gear will not come out with the worm in place. The gear face is concave where the worm contacts it. You can't get the worm to come by the "lip" on the edge of the gear with the worm in place. It works like you...
You can if only one battery is bad. Just hook up your 12v truck to one battery (+ to + and - to -) and try to start. If that doesn't work switch to the other battery and try it. If it still doesn't work both batterys are low and the only thing to do if you only have 12v available is to charge...
I've had good luck with matching also. I've done some touch up on my deuce with Gillespie and from a few feet away you can't tell where I've painted. You also have to consider that the CARC on the truck is surely faded some.
I thought you already had the worm out. You must first remove the worm before the gear will come out. If the worm is still in place that's what is holding you back. After the brake housing is removed and the cover on the drive end removed the worm should drive out from either end. Just tap on...
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